Phil and the guys try out sodium percarbonate to clean a deck without pressure washing it. The deck comes out pretty good.
00:00 We’re washing the deck off to prep for the cleaning 00:45 Showing both decks we’re treating 01:02 Mixing the sodium percarbonate 02:14 You need to leave a lot of room in your containers 02:26 Using a deck sprayer to spread it, want to strain it with cheese cloth first 03:05 Makes you think of a witches’ brew in cauldron 03:20 Pumped it up and started spraying 04:30 You can wear gloves, but it’s not required 04:42 Foams up like hydrogen peroxide 05:05 Good for the environment and saves the soft wood 05:50 Area scrubbed vs not done 06:30 The deck after we cleaned it and it dried 06:47 Deck correct, is it worth the money? 07:15 Applying the deck correct 08:47 Seems to work pretty good
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So, we’re we’ve got a deck that’s aged and it’s kind of brown and gray and the customer here wants us to try some medium called sodium percarbonate, not bicarbanate. And you put it in what you hosed the deck down, which the rain will do here shortly. And then we sort of put the sodium percarbonate. We’ll show you how that mixes and everything.
But right now, we’re hosing down, clean it all up. The idea is to make this thing fresh looking without actually doing the pressure washer, which knocks out the soft part of the of the wood and leaves the grain standing up. And we’re trying to get away from that. So we’re going to try it out and we’ll take you guys along with us.
Show a little more of the deck, the other deck that we’re going to be treating.
All right. This is the sodium percarbonate, actually. This is 5 lbs. We watch the video. So we’re not pretending to be experts at this. And what the customer asks us to do with we’re going to do and it’s showing a half a cup measurement per quart. We’ve got 8 quarts, two gallons of water. So there’s one this is one where we brew two, 3 minutes of with warm or hot water or five, six, seven, eight.
Then we’re going to stir it up. This is a paint stick, because we just got through painting to try to get all that stuff to dissolve into…
“Liquid form.”
We looked at the. Cut back once we get the straining. That you need to leave a lot of room. So in two gallon deal, you probably want to only put one gallon. As it just foams up.
“Makes a bit of a mess.”
So what we’re doing now is we’re using a deck sprayer slash whatever, a bug sprayer, chemical sprayer, all those things and we’re going to strain it like it was recommended with cheesecloth. So the little lumps that we might not have got mixed gets caught in that, not in the sprayer, hopefully. When you’re stirring it looks like milk but it’s not milk.
We stirred a lot. We just didn’t send in a boring part of it to watch.
“Stir, stir, stir.”
Acting like witches, stirring the brew that’s foaming over.
“How many it had. I mean, stirring a cauldron, I want a witches hat.”
There you go. I got one who’s bubbling. So it looks like a witch, right. We’ll show you what we’re do when we start spraying.
We pumped it up and then locked it down, which is part of the spray rig. And now we’re just going to soak it all into that, let it sit for an hour. You won’t have to watch it sit for hours if you notice it’s foaming up already. We’re expecting something to happen. I don’t know this that the gentleman not ready to go.
“That’d be a hell of a thing, come back and the deck is gone.”
With a lot of trouble there to get this deck right? Yeah.
“All right James. James is done with his ordeal.”
Come over here James.
“With the hose or leave the hose.”
“Leave the hose. You’re going to be operating that.”
“This, do I need to wear gloves?”
“It didn’t burn me any. Just a precaution, I’m sure.”
You can wear gloves if you want.
“I stuck my hand all the way down into it.”
Ya, so he’ll lose his hand first and leave the rest off it.
“What I read it’s foaming. So it looks like we’re throwing hydrogen peroxide all over it. Oh, we’re going to be making.”
Foamed up right here says, scrubbing it a lot of elbow grease, a lot of work.
This is good for the environment, supposedly, certainly not impacting the softness of the wood. If you notice these are almost black cause they are wet, and we spent a lot of mildew on them. We’ll have to hand scrub off and then.
“Almost like using an eraser on it.”
I can see places that you see the black right there, need to scrub more. So what we’re looking at, if you see this area that we scrubbed and then look over here where we haven’t.
“Your aged deck.”
And it ends up looking more like the pressure treated deck is supposed to look like and it will absorb the stain that we’re going to put on it. So lots of elbow grease, but it doesn’t knock out all the soft part of the of the wood as you scrub in it.
Should be in the picture because we have two strict orders to put the cat in the cage was not to have the cat. This deck has been cleaned by us.
It’ll be on another video, sodium percarbonate and it did really good. It’s got that old black looking wood looking pretty nice. And then we’re going to use some stuff called Deck Correct. It’s ah, pretty expensive stuff. We’re going to see if it’s worth the money. Covers 75 square feet per gallon, which is not very much, but it’s supposed to fill in cracks and things like that.
So if you’ll ride along with us, we’ll see what deck correct actually can do. So we’re going to start the handrails, work our way down.
Can have it, deck correct tinted whatever color you want. It supposed to fill in a lot of the small cracks. Obviously not the big ones. So we’re going to see this is a two coat application, not one.
So we’re going to see how it does. I’m starting with the top and working my way down and it’s a little thicker than the average paint, obviously if I only go 75 square feet, but I think most of your wall paint does about 300, 250 to 300, this does 75. This says so for I kind of put it on thick and run off, pull off anything that might run, and the goal is to fill in, make an old deck look brighter.
We’ll take you through it.
This is Deck Correct. Look at two coats on it. The roller doesn’t seem to do as well getting down. And so we went over a lot of it. We’ve got to keep an eye on your brush because the brush will end up, but you got to keep the brush with a Sandy finish, which is less of a chance of slipping.
So we’ll end up with that. If you look at what we have, it’s going to have a slight exhaust and it does a good job. It sticks and it holds on as a coat, not necessarily something that would break down. I’ll let you know as time passes if I don’t like it because of the wear and tear, because I’ll be around this house pretty often.
So my suggestion is if you can afford it, deck correct is pretty good stuff.
When you’re central heating and air leaks, make sure and check the floors. Phil shows you what to check on your a/c to prevent this problem. Then they take the toilet out and start repairing the subfloor.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 We’re finishing up a job someone else started 00:10 They called to have him explain it and then wanted to just have us fix it 00:26 First thing he sees is the a/c has leaked more than once 01:00 There’s a coil here that freezes up 01:22 Has a plastic overflow pan, but not very big 01:35 Need to clean the a-coil at least once a year 02:02 We recommend you keep the a/c clean for it to run good 03:07 First thing is to take off the door, so it’s not in the way 03:56 Quick tip on how to fix doors not working, bent hinges 04:37 Easy way to make the place better 04:50 Next we’re going to make a starting point to pull the bad floor out 05:10 They put the linoleum down before the walls at the factory 05:26 We’re going to replace it with house type. You can put house type materials in the mobile home 05:51 There are always obstacles, want to watch for water and electric lines 06:12 Want to run a shallow, long cut with the sawzall 06:48 Have an oscillating saw, which is cheap and we keep finding more uses for 07:15 Pulling the toilet up 07:51 You can take a hacksaw to get the nuts off 08:06 Want to take the lid off, and then best place to put the toilet is in the tub 08:20 If you try putting in another room, the trap can spill water 08:43 Things you want to keep in mind when working. If you break the top, not likely to be able to replace it. 09:11 The rusty bolts aren’t always because of a leak 10:29 Cut the bolts off and ready to move the toilet 10:52 When you get the toilet up you want to plug that hole with something while you’re working 11:20 This floor vent is smaller than usual 11:34 A lot of times if you’re losing a/c or heat it will be because this is loose. Easy fix 12:20 We use screws, never staple the vents back in like the factory does 13:04 We’ve taken a sawzall and cut under the wall at an angle to avoid lines 13:32 This wall is a little difficult because floor joist is just under the wall 14:00 With flooring, sometimes you can cut it in the middle and take it out in big chunks 14:20 Putting in the floor supports 14:57 How to pull up floor supports that are down 15:53: The ductwork is odd, not something we’ve seen before 16:25 So, we need to support the floor there to make sure the ductwork isn’t smashed 17:09 That plastic barrier is why you don’t have to have a vapor barrier on the ground under a mobile home 17:32 If you want to hold water under your house, put plastic on the ground 17:57 Mobile homes have the vapor barrier against the house, holding the insulation in 19:00 Where we’re putting the support and why 19:30 Measured and cut the 2×6 for under the cabinet 21:00 Supporting the entire area where the ductwork is 21:42 Pre-drilling the area 22:43 Ready to lay the plywood 23:06 Want to run the plywood across the two bys, not with them
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Uh, this is us trying to finish up what someone else started actually called me out and said, hey, can you explain things on how to do it? And I did. And they got. It’s discouraging at first if you don’t have experience,or haven’t watched one of these videos, maybe. But he got started and we’re going to finish it up. The first thing I see whenever I got here is, although this is a wet area where you got a toilet that could leak, a sink that can leak, a bathtub that could overflow or leak.
It looks like the air conditioner central heating air has been leaking down. They’ve already replace the floor once and it’s been running down through here. And this had linoleum. And then they took the linoleum up, and then it got underneath the linoleum, which is quite likely what happens is you come over here with the. There’s a coil. If you don’t change, the filters sometimes they are in the door. This works just fine. If you don’t change the filters like this one’s totally clogged up, this thing will ice up and it will overflow. There’s a plastic pan right here. It doesn’t have very much room. Let me see if I can get this light.
“Ya, that’s better.”
That light in there. See, that’s not much of a pan. And you need to clean these coils once a year at least. So there’s a drain that comes out of this pan right here. You need to clean that out once a year, at least. And so clean your coil, clean those things, and change your filter every month. But this wasn’t done. So it overflow, went down, hit the floor, and soaked back and went back into here.
I can promise you that’s what happened. So what I recommend to avoid this and for your air conditioner to run good is to clean the coil that way it pulls air through it regularly and like it’s supposed to and change your filters again. The same as if you took your car and put your, you know, mud over top of the radiator or put your hand over your mouth running up a hill.
You’re asking a lot of that air conditioner and it will freeze up if it’s restricted that way or if it’s low freon or freeze up, go past the pan, which it only has like a half inch of room in this case, and then it’ll just run water down and then you’ll have water damage on top of the non running properly air conditioner.
So we’re going to fix what they ask me to fix in this case this customer. The renter is a very good renter in that the renter actually tries to fix things, but lack of experience kind of discouraged him. So the first thing we’re going to do is take off this door so it’s not in the way for doing what we need to do there.
And then we can get real close to the edges and what I normally do is just take the hinges loose. This is way I can put them right back. You can almost always see where they did go, and I usually do the… The bottom first, put my foot underneath this. Elbow’s kind of holding it to the wall.
Then I put the screws over here. By the way, a lot of times people say, well, my door doesn’t work. What do I do? It’s got a problem. See how this if you notice right here, this hinge is bent because it’s bent this door will be having a tendency to be tight over here. What you can do. Let me see that hammer right there, by you.
“All right,”
Just flip that hinge over to the door. Little cheapy hinges. Just flatten the hinge out. And guess what? It’ll work for a while longer. This one is bent also not very much. Not yet where it’s a problem. But I already know in order to make my work look right, you know, fix the door and they’re like hey, something feels better about this place.
So, when we put that… What we’re going to do next is I’ll make a starting point with like a hammer, get real close, we’ll being and prime this batten strip up because it’s nothing there. But to seal the bottom of the drywall, it really is not much in the way of trim. And they put this linoleum down before they put the walls down. So the walls, they don’t have to cut it.
They just roll it over at the factory and then put the wall on top. So the trim is not covering the edges of the linoleum or tile, which they don’t have tile. So we’re going to replace that with a regular house type. That’s usually my goal is to make a mobile home a lot more like a house, a conventional home, than to try to say, Oh, well, it‘s a mobile home, you can’t do it.
So here we go and I’m going to. There’s a vent here, in this case, but there’s always obstacles if you notice over here. Bring that camera.
“Um-hm.”
There’s water lines and quite often, there’s electric lines. So you don’t want to run deep cut with a sawzall and then hit a water line. Because I’ve done that, and it ain’t no fun. So what I end up doing is run a shallow, long cut with the sawzall, and in this case, you’re going to have to be careful not to get into the duct work which you can patch.
But it’s better not to just do the damage. You know, we’re not going to use this three-eighths or half inch plywood that I guess they put in here to walk on. And we’re going to probably replace that over there by the doorway because that doesn’t look right either. So we’re going to cut all this out with a sawzall.
I have an oscillating saw, which we’ve had more and more ways to use. Didn’t buy anything expensive. Like we got it from Harbor Freight. It’s like $20 for a cheapy one. The blades for a package of them it’s like $9 package of three which get one cut blade and two scrapers. So for very little money, you can be doing this yourself and I’ll try to take you on very slowly through all this.
Looking at the… We want to get this out of the way whenever you start taking the toilet out. And one, you want to take this loose. If you’re in a house that hasn’t had the tremendous amount of damage like this one, you’re going to want to put a towel down because the remainder of the tank in here, after you shut it off and flushed, it will still run water down on the floor.
And then you create more damage, which can take a little while to show up. But anyway. Put a towel down and take this loose. In this case, we know we’re not going to be able to get these nuts through all that rust. As a rule, you won’t you can use a hacksaw. In this case I’m using the, a Ryobi battery powered Sawzall, and we’re going to cut these off.
And we’re going to lift this toliet up. We’re going to take this lid, placed it in another room and then put the toilet in here quite often we’ve put a rag and set the toilet on that, but reason to do that is because if you try to move it into another room, the trap inside this toilet, it will run water on to the floor because you’re moving around.
And what we do is put it in here on the rag, and rock it back and forth and all the water, most of the water it never gets all the water will go into the bathtub and then we can just left it back in here when we get the floor in, so these are things you need to be conscious of.
You want to protect your tops. So you don’t lose it, drop it and break it and then you gotta, these are. You’re just not going to find one like it they they buy things in lots and when the manufacturer runs out of those. They move on to another and then make a deal with another manufacture or those manufacturers may not even be in business and they certainly may not have made that toilet anymore.
So as far as the the rusty bolts, not always. Is it because of a leak? A lot of times it’s because the water inside here, which comes from outside through the ground, it cool it’s cool. And so, like when you’re sick and you’re feeling really good, put your head up against a cold toilet. They call that toilet cold temperature where the warmer temperature inside causes condensation and ends up collecting down here and making these rust and have a decorative cover on there doesn’t change that.
The moisture is still going to be there. So that’s not unusual. Even in a high dollar house, even with a bidet, you’re going to have some condensation because the change in color, they don’t make insulated toilets, that I’m aware of. So I put my hand on there and I can feel just a little bit of moisture. Is it going to cause the floor to go?
No, it’s not that much moisture, but it hits this metal and collects around it and this is what happens. So you’re going to want to cut this off and you can use a hacksaw. So we’re using metal cutting blade. In this case, that’ll be…
We cut the bolts off with the sawzall. It usually doesn’t. Do any kind of porcelain and took the lid off. Put it out of here. We’re going to lift this thing out and expect a spit a little water. In this case, it wasn’t very much. Next, when you get that toilet it up, you’re going to want to put something in there to toilet paper. Otherwise, you’re going to get all the fumes, which is why the traps are there, on sinks and there’s a trap in there on the toilet so the smell doesn’t come up. And anything else it wants to come up.
So there’s always water in there, to stop that smell. So we got to stop that smell by putting something in the hole. This particular vent is smaller than normal. Normally there are like a 4×10”. This one is 4×8. They’re all held on with aluminum, really flimsy aluminum and staples generally.
A lot of times I will, people say man I’m losing a lot of air conditioning underneath the house, because I can feel it when I open up my skirting some of the time.
Some of the issue is this area here on underneath where it connects to the ductwork is got foil tape and it’s open on the corners. You can do that yourself. You pull your vents off and seal it all, make sure everything’s fastened. And sometimes the ductwork is litterally in the cold and these are not holding anything. We’ll pull all of these stapled out and we’ll end up using screws into the plywood and sometimes can be a little more difficult to get the vent in, but not always.
Well, I don’t staple anything, and that’s sometimes theorized that the mobile home factory, the people who work there and have had a piece of trim on a double-wide was in the middle what they call marriage wall. They had over a hundred staples in it and it still has fallen off. So I don’t understand. We see it all the time.
There’ll be six, four, five, six staples in one little tiny area, and then other areas might grow 15 inches. But they kind of they kind of encourage it obviously somehow by putting staples in lots. So what I’ve done here is cut with the sawzall, at a hard angle, like so, in that way I don’t hit an electric line because I’m not going so far under that I cut anything that’s underneath the wall. But stand like so. And then I’ve also done it so that I don’t cut into this ductwork that you can see right here, this looks like a strap, that they left over. Part of the a strap they just left it under there. It happens to be this one is a little more difficult because the wall ends up in the floor joist ends up being right there next to the wall.
But that’s kind of an advantage in that we can put a 2 by right to that. And we’ll set a floor on that and it’s just all brute work. If you watch any of my other videos, you’ll see how I deal with a lot of different situations when it comes flooring, sometimes you can cut through the middle. In this case, you wouldn’t want to cause there’s ductwork right there, and then step on one side in the other and pull it loose.
Other times you just got to smash it out and get it all out. And that’s what we’re going to do, we’re going to go through here and I’ll show you as we go along, how what we’re going…
Now, we‘re going to screw, there’s a lot of different ways. You can do this. You can like I did on this one, go at an angle through here and then go through here. The goal is to get underneath, to help support the tub. And, also in this case and even with the floor joists. Now, in a case like this where it’s kind of dropping down back there, a lot of times what I can do, put a screw in like so, get this started over on this side and then I’ll try to pull it up and pull the screw back out. Put it over here. That kind of pulled down, I don’t like that. But that’s all right. So in this case, it was kind of an odd.
I’ve not seen it, there’s no reason for this ductwork to go over here. This is outside of the wall. There’s no ductwork running to the sometimes they haven’t flexible ductwork running into the kitchen cabinets. That’s not the case here. For whatever reason, they say the whole trunk and there’s folded up underneath here. So, in this case, you’re not going to see this very often because I haven’t seen in 30 years, but we’re going to put a two by four right here and we’re going to make it, where even though this is smashing into ductwork.
We’re going to put that there. Looks like we’re going to have to go and get some 5/4ths material, which is a little bigger than three quarters of… It’s inch and a quarter, instead of inch and a half. A lot of people use wood decking, so we’ll put it right there. So we get the most amount of wood along side here, because a two by won’t fit, because this is a really weird situation you don’t normally see ductwork run parallel.
Usually it’s down under and it runs that way is protected by the the plastic barrier, which is why you don’t have to have a plastic barrier on the ground underneath a mobile home even though. So the building code on read your houses having if you put it there water gets underneath that house, it stays there if you want to make a pond but dig a hole, put plastic on the ground and it will hold water for a long time.
Okay. So if you want to hold water under your house, put plastic on the ground, the mobile home here in this case has a vapor barrier which is right here holding the insulation. It protects the plumbing, whereas a house, house has block walls it’s just, you know, around the outside dug into the ground where water doesn’t pass through like it does on skirting on a mobile home and a mobile home, has it’s vapor barrier here, whereas a house puts a vapor barrier on the ground and the insulation is exposed. You don’t want that in your mobile home because you don’t have the block walls to protect you from the wind.
We get into that discussion several times and I get lots of questions and a lot of people talk about Square footage of venting. They’re trying to apply what works with. A house to a mobile home. It doesn’t work, I promise you.
You can put all of the vents that you want and I’ll crawl underneath that house and there will be water, especially if you put plastic on the ground. So in this case, we don’t have that situation. We’re working with a of vapor barrier that’s still here, the insulation still here. There’s actually a frame right here, which is usually about three foot from the outside wall.
And then outriggers to support the ridge beam out there. So this is necessary. We’re going to put a two by here and we’re going to put fine force there. And we’re going to pre-drill holes into this this board so that we can put a two by all the way across here and give us a little more support right here.
And we got to you’re not gonna be able to see anything with my big body in the way, but we’re going to fasten a two by six here, and a two by six over there underneath this cabinet, kind of support it. And then we’ll put a little two by in there and I’ll show you how I cut that two by to do that.
But you won’t be able to see anything if you if you watch me video wise. So we’ll bring you back when we get to the next level. What we’re done is measure this, get a little bit of room and added two inches on each side, which would be a total of four. And then we notched out an inch and a half depth. And that way we can put it in because it’s going to be difficult to hold in place. I mean, I could reach underneath with my arms and let’s put it in there. Looks like we’ll have to cut it down some.
Even though it split we just moved it over a little bit wide gap because we had it like a quarter inch or less too long and he’s made sure that it’s not going to be a problem. So anyway, the now will have support for the foot area. I don’t think anybody ever that fat is going to put that much weight right on their toes, but hey, we’re ready for it if they are.
So now we’ve got to get five-fourths. So I have to go to the mobile home park that I have and see if I can find some five-fourths material or in the other place. We had a hardware store close by and by that, but we’re close to my mobile home park, so we’ll run over there and do that.
The whole area beside the ductwork they got goes to nowhere and we’re putting a five-fourths board to rip down because the depth of their flange on the side and pinches together is not going to make it available for us. We’re hoping we get this squeezed in there, but staples and things like that. My discourage us trying to get, the two by six, not the…
We’re going to pre-drill. I think it’s like an eighth inch drill bit.
“It is.”
I don’t know what that is.
“A dog.”
That tap, tap, tapping?
“Ya, ya sounds like a creature from the deep underkneith that? Got it all.”
All right now we can lay plywood and screw through something too. And we’ve got the board over here. What we’re going to do next. I want to run my plywood across the two by.
So that way you don’t lose strength. The board is laminated and length this way the tree would have been this way. And we want that to go across the two bys. If you run with it then it might bow in between.
And I don’t want that. So mug way in my dress so 53 and a quarter is what I measure from that wall to that wall. And then we’re going to go out there and roughly measure it and then we’re going to measure all our cuts, which is a lot we’ve got.
If you notice over here, a two by on each side of this that allow us to cut any angle we want to to get that plywood in there. So what we’ll probably do is go at an angle from this point, the center of this floor joist. And angle through this water line and that flange.
To see if we can get that piece in. Quite often end up having to cut that piece and two pieces also. But you will be there when we go outside. We’re going to measure and I got 53 and a quarter and I’ll end up with a cut at…
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 What we’re doing on this job 00:16 Estimating a job, don’t forget this 01:23 You want to account for board width 01:55 Deck layout and how to measure/mark 02:05 Using 16″ centers instead of 20″ 05:26 Measure twice, cut once 07:20 Layout is complete 07:45 Secured it to the fence 08:12 Why we laid the deck out the way we did 08:45 Who knew Phil spent all day screwing off, literally 09:10 Finished deck
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Gazebo on, We’re going to have a wood walkway out here in this beautiful little yard. Take you through it step by step. The first thing that I had to learn when I started out in the business was really not estimating. Of course, that. Is a part of it. You sit down, break down how much you’re going to have, allow 10%. But one of the fatal mistakes that I made. Early on, over and over again. Is I would forget the time that it took to go get the materials, that is.
Load up a trailer, air up the tires. Driving the town. Go in there, load up all those materials, put them on the trailer, strap it all down and bring it back. Walk it into the places you’re working on. So whenever you’re doing it, say if you’re doing it for somebody or if you’re doing it for yourself, you need to allow that much time.
There’s probably an hour and a half altogether moving it around. So but other times you got to go another hour to the job, sometimes 2 hours. You might have five, 6 hours with two guys, three guys you have all that time. So, you need to be careful.
Now, when it comes to building a 12×12 with a dress upside, and the covered sides. You have to allow that in reality in a three and an eighth, three and a quarter smaller, because boards are inch and a half, inch and three quarters. So, it be 3 1/8, 3 1/8, it’d be 6 1/4” smaller than 12’ is what we’re going to cut the runners, keep in mind when you’re doing it yourself.
So, you got to allow for the outside. This is going to have the frame and then it’s going to have a dress up board to cover the ends around it to dress up nice.
I have the boards running this way. So I have to make the framework go this way instead of go two-foot center, we’re doing 16” centers, which is a little more cost for a lot more strength. So here we are. You’ve got to remember to allow for the wrap around it. And that’s going to be three inches. But let’s say that I’m going to have the board going.
This way first. So, I allow an inch and half past to the outside and center of the first one would be 16. If you notice, I have both sides. So, they’re both prepared at the same time. That’s the center. So if the board is inch and half, it would be three quarters back, then inch and half is the width. So now we’re dead center and we’re on 16 inch.
And then from that point, I mark an X right here when I go 16 inches from the side with the same. Center to center and side to side. And then I mark which side it goes. 16 and 32, 48, 54, 80, 96, 112, 128. So go back an inch and half, then I got to allow for all said and done.
Six and eight. So, inch and half, and four and five-eighths. Okay. Cut that part off. Measure twice, cut once. Now if you notice, I made these marks. I have. This speed square here, I can. Do both at the same time. You deal with a framing square the same. And a plastic one works just as good. It’s just not quite fancy. Not quite as professional. It will work. I’m marking where the stud goes. And they can see it.
All right. There it is. We’re going to start setting it all up.
All right. What we did was. Everything’s on 16-inch centers. Like I said, probably cost $15 more to do it on 16-inch centers as opposed to two foot, just for revenues in making it look pretty. So the edges are going to show and I want it to be uniform. So I put this board behind there. He wanted it fastened against the or up against the fence.
And then we put all kinds of supports underneath this so that it won’t bounce when we put the wood on it. And you see, there’s a lot of bricks around because we don’t have beams to support. So we’re ready to now start laying the boards across on with a space of the thickness of a pencil and why we’re laying it this way instead of this way, because I figured he’d be looking for the living room and see in that will look longer with the floor joists I mean the floor cover going this way, whereas it went this way, it kind of looks shorter.
But also we’re going to have the walkway boards going this way also. So I kind of look all uniform and big from the living room. So that’s what we’re going to do. We’re building this to have a ten foot by ten-foot metal good metal gazebo and everything’s done with screws.
It’s like I was telling you he was saying, It’s the proof that I screw off all day long doing. Three screws per. Trying to keep the gap pretty even in. Usually this tightens it up, big time. But we’re coming together. I’ll show you some pictures as we go along.
This deck yesterday, but people were playing on it as quick as we got finished. But this is the finished product. He has a dress up board on the outside, all the more discreet off.
We had a little runner to the steps, but here it is. This is what they’re going to have for a gazebo that’ll be on another video.
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Transcript: I’m about as ready as I’m ever going to be. I’ve done been punished by this Walmart Better Homes and Gardens thing. Supposed to have four guys, we did with three still took 5 hours and I feel like a retard. But it is what it is. It’s a beautiful thing and we’ll see how long and everybody stays happy with it because it looks really neat sitting on that deck that we built.
And I wouldn’t have wanted to video this because it will be a lot of cuss words in it, maybe really bad temper tantrums, you know, so but you can do it. Just be prepared. It’s going to be more than one person because it’s tough. Anyway. He did a great job choosing what he wanted and it’s really nice. Thank you very much for hanging in there with me and give me that support that I didn’t see while I was building this.
Phil shows you how to replace the bathroom floor. Mobile home bathroom that was damaged by an overflow air conditioner leak.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Bathroom damaged from a/c leak 00:15 Check your over flow line at least once a year and blow out 00:25 Drain line needs to be on the other side of the house on the downhill side 00:55 The leak could come from anything 01:05 What all we’re going to do today 01:40 We’ll pull back the carpet checking for damage 03:03 Toilet has been taken up. Why you might not want to caulk there. 03:41 Tank bolts, what if they won’t come lose? 04:20 Before you move the toilet and tank back 04:37 You will want to block the septic drain 05:25 Inside the AC 06:02 Brought the trim back in to show you why you want to caulk the bathroom trim 07:05 Want to break a hole in the floor along the edge 07:50 Floor is out, and we’re adding wood along the edges to support the floor 10:17 Where we put the wood supports 10:50 Measured for the flange 11:35 Shut offs and water lines 11:49 Why we cut the plywood the way we did 12:29 Showing how we pieced the plywood for the floor together 13:10 Supporting the cabinet 13:49 Cutting the two by 15:08 Back inside with the 2 by 16:56 Starting the tile 17:22 Tile glue and what you need to think about 17:49 An alternative to tile glue 18:15 Floors in, we sealed the trim bottom and top 18:43 Fast grab saves you some time, but costs 3 times as much
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And this is another example of a bathroom that got an issue with the air conditioner. The overflown on the a-coil, spilled over and then ran inside the bathroom of the bathroom and into the hallway some too. That’s very typical. What you want to do is every year, sometimes twice a year you want to blow out that line. That goes for a drain, and it’s uh…
I’ll talk about that another time. But that drain line needs to go to the other side of the house. Not on the uphill downhill side. Otherwise, that water can literally make this house settle because that moisture underneath the piers make the house settle down. So this is an important thing maintain your drain line and clean your a-coils.
A lot of people don’t know how to do that, but there’s plenty of maybe at some point I’ll show you how to do that. You can buy a little aerosol can that sprays and cleans it all up. I’ll show you all that another time. Anyway, that’s what happened here. But it could be a leak from a cabinet, sink cabinet, or from a tub overflowing.
It could be this issue. So what we’re going to do today is tear out this floor. We’re actually going to leave this time, leave the cabinet in. We’re going to pull the toilet, remove the trim, and put in a new door. This actually is not a door that came from the factory it’s been put in. We’re going to put in the doorjamb jamb.
Of course we’ll have to widen this out. I’ll show you all that. We’re going to put new tile down. I’ll show you two different methods of glue and then we’ll put the toilet back down. We’ll put new tile in new trim, and we’ll pull the carpet back because we have a split there. In the carpet, it’s from the factory.
You don’t normally have the split right here. So this is probably a big carpet that’s been replaced. We’ll pull this back and we’ll look and see if we have any damage here that we need to work on because particleboard deteriorates slowly, quite often, and you might have a bad area and it take another year or two for a totally falls through.
It’s all held together with glue. Everybody says, well, you should always use plywood instead of particleboard. Sort of. The issue is water soluble glue is put in plywood that puts in layers. So if water gets on that plywood, it’ll be laminate and it will not fall through like particale board does, but it will rollercoaster and the layers will come apart So water is a bad thing for wood.
So if you know and have time, we won’t have time on this one. When you put plywood in a kitchen or in a bathroom, if you have the time, paint it. And that way you can resist a lot of the damage. It might happen from an overflow of a sink or an overflow the toilet or an overflow tub or people stepping out of the tub. So just for your information, this is what we’re going to do and I’ll guide you through it.
Hey, the toilets being taken up. It had some caulking around it, which is not a bad idea. It’s just not a good idea if you’re thinking that it’s going to keep it from leaking out, what it’s doing is forcing it to hit the floor there and it’ll come out anyway.
Anyway, what we did was shut the water off because if you don’t have a shut off there, you have to shut the whole house down. Do it because you have to remove the toilet to do a good job. Now, whenever you do that, then you flush your toilet and then you disconnect your line and there’s going to be water coming down.
So that put a towel down and then you’re going to try to loosen up your tank bolts in this case, like many, many cases. Tim, he’s operating the camera and had to cut off those bolts where the sawzall or you can take a hacksaw on turned. There’s a way to change blade to a sideways. You can cut that off real slowly and cut those bolts off.
Then you lift that toilet up. And in my case, we took it and put stuff to cover up, the toilet, uh the tub because we don’t want to skin up or dirty up the tub and put it inside there and then put the tank in here. Now, before we put this tank back I don’t want water to come out of that trap, which is right here, what we’ll have to do is rock that tank backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards and more water come out.
Hopefully we’ll have very much come out before then. Whatever we pull the toilet and put it in there. You better put something inside here because if you don’t, you end up savoring the smells that come out of a septic tank because the trap is in the toilet, not in the floor. Like in a sink the trap is underneath the sink.
So you will not have a trap to stop the, to the water is what in the bottom of that trap, stops the smell from coming up. The trap, that’s what that’s for, is to stop the smell. So put something in that hole and we’re going to cut out all this area and we’ve also got the issue with the jam right here.
It’s been all rotted out from the air conditioning unit. Not having the drain. And this is the drain.
“Good save.”
This is the drain line. This is a cool mess that gets clogged up here. Or if it gets clogged in that drain line all the way out. It’ll overflow, drop down into your air conditioning vents and all over onto the floor. That’s what happens. This is not unusual at all. It happens a lot. And before you know it, your floor is rotted out.
You don’t even have a chance to fix it. So once or twice a year, you need to clean that up. We’ll clean this up. Alright?
Hey guys just let, we brought the trim back in so you can see this is very typical. It’s nothing unusual. Water might have overflow from here or the shower came down from here. Some people stepping out from here.
The toilet could have overflowed to sink, kind of overflows. But when the water comes up here against this drywall, there’s no caulking right here. It’ll go underneath the trim and then hit that drywall and it will come up. And that’s what you see right here. It’s coming up the drywall and it stains the trim at the same time.
“It soaks into the drywall, right?”
Soaks into the drywall, comes up here quite often. You can literally see stains. And these have been painted over but it’s been a while since it’s had an issue. But you can have the evidence right there in front of you. And so what we’re going to do, whenever we get through with all this, replacing the floor and everything we’re going to caulk the front side and the top side of that trim. So and not that it’s going to make it a pond in here, but it will stop it from running hitting the wall and whicking up.
And I recommend you do the same. So what we usually do is when we’re getting ready to may replace the floor is this is going to be tough, but we… This has actually got particle board that has been replaced before. There’s been tile put over the top of linoleum. But we do that so that we can start to sawzall up against the wall and cut along that edge.
And sometimes it’s real easy, like, like there easier to get. So that’s what you do. You start and then you put your sawzall and cut it in an angle and cut it out.
OK, This pretty thing is not as pretty as it was. We took out the floor, which is a bit of a chore, we had chisel around the edges, get everything cleaned up We were fortunate enough to have wood on the outside. Quite often you have to build it out.
One point I guess I’ll have a job where I can show you guys how to do that, but a lot of times you can just fashion it to there, underneath here. This cabnet is a point. We’re literally going to go from here to there underneath the cabin. We’re going to crawl underneath there and fasten that to the floor joist over there.
But I’ve already got that cut. Put one piece in, and now I’m using pressure to the wood, not because I have to, but because it’s left over from a deck that we did. So it’s just a plus for the customer, and I fit them in there tight between. So you cut them tight and then I So I’ll put 3 inch screws in, now in reality, I could actually like, say for here, go like this and I want to make sure the set good and so on that twisted down. That always runs an issue so you can actually go through the side also.
But in this case I’m going to go as long as and I put one on at least two per end. Now, I’m not using any coated screws they’re just more expensive, doesn’t do any better job. Do not use torks if it’s more expensive. So that way there’s something for the plywood to be at that won’t move. You put weight there, it won’t move. We’re going to put one here and here on both sides of the toilet so that I can cut and go underneath the toilet flange, which I’ll show you that.
So here we go. I’ll try to cut you here in there as I go along.
All right. So in this situation, we cut wood along side the tub, with screws fastening it, one on each side of the toliet flange itself and then one underneath the cabinet kind of out. So the edge of the cabnet will be done and then one underneath the counter, whick had to climb underneath and fasten to the floor joist. So we fastened it here and then crawled underneath it and fastened underneath the cabinet.
So the cabnet is supported. In a minute, I’ll show you how we’ll put in one right here. But right now, we’ve measured the center of the flange and then measured the center to here and then mind you, that sits on top of the plywood. So it’s actually it’s actually about an inch back in here or more that the plywood needs to be cut in a circle around it.
I guess I’ll do a tutorial on how to cut toilet flange. And when you don’t have the tools, all the different ways to do it. And then we also have the water supply line. So, this is CPVP which will freeze I generally encourage everybody to do pex. Um, the shut-off is leaking but I think we can, but I think it’d be alright.
I usually use quarter turn shut-offs and this one’s shutting off most of the way we marked where the floor joist is here, where it is here and where it is here. We got the plywood cut and the piece go round now means we have one on each side. Not only does this give support to the toilet. But also it allows us to cut the plywood where we can go like so and have pieces instead of one solid piece meant to cut the pipe, put it back together, which just causes more grief.
A lot of times there’s multiple connections and it goes on to somewhere else. So you don’t want to do that. So that’s why I’ve always added this, because it makes a better job. And then I guess we choices as to where to cut the wood and I have screws underneath, screw it all together and be all nice together. So that’s what we’ll be doing next.
All right. What we’ve done is went ahead an cut this all way down this floor joist. It was right here. Then we slip this piece in and then we put this piece in the top slipped it underneath. We’ve already got this piece cut. Quite a jigsaw puzzle. But after you had the centers and you got that cut, then you decide, hey, I can, I can make that little distance right there.
Or I could have went from here to over to there and then try to wiggle around this one to allow myself that much work and quiet often scratch the cabnet. But before I put this piece in, I want to support right here in front. So to show you what I do.
I know that in between these two 20 and quarter it allows room but I want to have at least two inches, two and a half inches on each side. So I’ll have notch the 2 by turn it on edge and notch the two by on that side with 20 and a quarter in between two and a half inches on each side. Then I’ll put screws through here and I’ll show you that when we come back.
We’re trying to get that two and a half inches in this case we cut down an inch and a half, my drywall issue. You can do this with squares, but I can do it real quick. I’m going to cut that section out. And then I’m going to have 20 and a quarter over two and a half inches from there.
Inch and a half inch and five eighths down so I cut this section out here and cut that off. Alright ready to go. Well, we’re going to go inside and.
Here we cut that like we showed you put a little screw in here so I can hold it and I’m going to drop it down through, and guess what I need that screw to hold it. Well, I could do in my hand, I guess if you needed like a pry bar or anything else, you can hold it pretty steady right there. And I need three inch screws. Thanks.
“Yep.”
Well that didn’t last Now. We have something solid for the floor to sit on and we’re supporting both sides for the cabinet. Cabinet won’t move. Now, guess what? Now the next piece of the jigsaw puzzle.
“Which can be quite puzzling.”
This looks like we have to do some cutting. Just. As you want it to be. Correct. Ten and half insert. We’ll have to cut this and we’ll be right back.
What we did is when we walked in. I would want, since I’m doing 12×12 tiles. I would want the full pieces on this side so that would be what you would see and also like starting from this side. So the cut edges would be over there and the cut edges over there.
So, I marked 24 inches over. So I’ve got a line. That would be where I would want it to have enough to get up against the wall over here. So again I’m going to put glue down. Normally you would put a commercial VCT tile or glue or other kinds of glue. All there’s a lot of different types, but I like the commercial, but normally you would need anywhere from an hour and a half to a day depending on the humidity in the air for it to dry, and the temperature.
So, I’m going to show you guys an alternative. And it’s not something you see all the time, but this is a fiberglass resin panel adhesive and it grabs fast. But guess what? You can use it on tile too. So, I’m going to show you how to do that. It’s just basically the same as regular glue. But we’re going to do it and away we go.
OK, guys we’ve got the floor in the first grab. We put the trim in, resealed it. Now, this is important: we sealed at the bottom and the top of the trim. So if anybody steps out of here or splashes off, the shower comes down and we’ll go behind that and it won’t go underneath there and we rebuilt all that floor, including where he’s standing over there and sealed everything all the way around and using the fast grab saves you some time.
We cost three times as much as the glue. And that’s a fiberglass resin panel. That dog is not happy. Anyway. So there you go remember your Americans not American’ts.
Updated 1-12-23 Spray Green Fiber Insulation ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 There’s no insulation in the attic, but we’re gonna fix that00:40 Blowing the insulation in01:00 Area is getting much fuller01:16 12-14 inches above the 2×6’s01:33 When handling the hose you end up bouncing it off the ceiling01:55 You want the 12″ to get R6402:51 What we do may … Read more
Hi guys, we were repairing a floor and got wet from underneath it. The line busted, sprayed up on the floor and they wanted us to pull the carpet back and see if we could save it and put new floor in. So this is what it looks like to begin with. We got some big old soft spots right here and a couple over in here, but.
Usually the factory will pull this carpet over the top of the floor and then staple it from the sides, set the walls on top of it, so we’ll probably have to cut the carpet and then peel it back. Lots of fun.
Well, I was wrong. That’s another reason to not think of me as perfect. But they did have a tack strip and we pulled it up. So that we can cut and put in the old particleboard and put in plywood.
The damage is also in this area here, and they’re probably not going to get away with having to put in. Tile or linoleum.
So what they paid us to do is to replace this area because it got wet from underneath. That’s what we’re going to.
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Updated 1-12-23 Phil shows you one of the ways you can build a budget deck cover. We adjusted the original measurements by 3/4″ to save the customer on materials cost. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Build a cover over the current deck you have00:40 Measuring for wider than the deck00:55 Want to do a wood layout after you buy … Read more
How to build a budget deck on your home, mobile home or building. We walk you through step-by-step how to build a diy deck.
This deck is 8×10 but you can change to fit the needs of your diy project.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 How to layout the deck 00:45 We’ll cut to frame up the deck and fastening it to the wall 01:06 Framed up wooden deck 01:46 Attaching the deck to Mobile home frame 03:00 Bracing up the wooden deck frame 03:20 How you could set the deck frame by yourself 03:30 Want to level/adjust the frame and the put 8″ lag bolts with washers 04:00 How they are going to secure the deck 04:15 Using an Electric Impact from Harbor Freight 05:00 Adding blocks and 4×4 to secure 06:05 Cut 4x4s to 36″
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Phil is retrofitting attic lights to LED. WOW it gets hot in the attic in summer.
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Transcription: This is another example of all the different things. Obviously, this is not in a mobile home’s attic. And if you go in a basement of a mobile home, there’s wheels anyway. We’re in, we’re retrofitting led from fluorescent changing fluorescence to LED and we’ll climb up in the attic. So we got into a discussion about how hot it was. This is actually not when we went up last time.
So it’s cooler because it’s earlier. But right now we’re shooting about 101.8 and we’re going to go back further into the gates. So we’ll get back with you in just a minute. Well, we’re deep into the belly of the beast and early part of the day. So now I’m reading about 102 and getting warmer all time I’ve been up in here for a later time later. I guess I’m losing my memory, but it has been a later in the day we were measuring way higher and I’ve been in attics and we’re over 140, which is dangerous.
So now we’re going to go ahead and cut down our odds of getting in trouble and head downstairs.
What Renters can do to your property and how to fix it. Walking through one of our rental properties after a tenant left and left EVERYTHING behind. Including masses of trash.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 In one of our rental assessing the damage 00:38 What people will do to avoid cleaning 01:05 Mobile home factory caused a problem with floors 01:50 Why is that such a bad habit 02:10 You have a gap that runs across the floor cause by railroading 02:25 How he does the floors and why. 02:35 Never want to run all materials with the floor joists 02:45 Popping a chalk line over where we need to replace the floor 03:15 This won’t get fixed in one day 03:27 What you deal with as a landlord 03:38 If you trash a car you have to pay for it 04:00 Rental property laws 04:15 A different tenant set the property on fire 05:00 On heck of a scam 05:30 Child was eventually charged with arson 05:50 Another renter and property 06:15 Woops that back fired 06:25 Every person who has lived here we’ve helped 06:40 Never had a landlord do any of that for me 06:55 No matter how nice you are…
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Hey guys, I guess you won’t see me in my best mood because this is actually one of my places that I used to be real nice.
But anyway, uh, we’re repairing the floor and a number of other things, probably I’ll take you through it, but, you know, you really would not understand at depth, how bad this place was. But one of these times I’ll take you all the way through whenever I step in and what people do and out of disrespect.
But, uh, this had 3 16 foot trailers of trash and probably two trailer loads of furniture they left behind. They left everything behind. I had uh, the guy I bought the, buying the mobile home park from.
He said, Hey, Phil, you’ll find out that people will move because they have to clean. They can’t live there anymore. This is one of those cases they moved because they just couldn’t deal with DHS anymore and they anyway.
So what we’re dealing with is. Actually a problem that was inherited from design, uh, on the floor, the, the factory ran, long sheets lengthways. Instead of across, that’s really bad habit, because the particleboard and the plywood, uh. Runs their layers this way also. So inherently it’s weaker. And it will bow in between. It doesn’t help that it had water on it.
But if you’ll notice that there’s a little bit of a gap right there, uh, say a quarter inch, and it goes all the way across that particular area. But here where it got just a little bit of water, of course it’s much, much worse. So what we’re going to do is pop lines, and I’ll probably replace material. And guess what? I’m not going to be running the material lengthways, even if it’s only 16 inches wide, I’m going to run 16 inch butt cuts across it. That way, the strength.
Is running this direction across an area because that way. So you always you never want to do what they call railroading, which is to run your material lengthways with the floor joists. You want to go across the floor joists. So, you’re still on the strength of the floor joists, going this way and the plywood going this way. Weaving it. It’s making both of them stronger.
So that’s what we’re going to do.
James, if you can get that chalk-line let’s pop a line where I already made marks. There’s one over there James. Now we’ll uh, cut along that line and we’ll show you each step of the way. You know, I may actually be in different clothes beceause I might not do it all in one day, but this will be a continual thing, um, that I’ll. Probably take you more.
And more through what I deal with as a person who rents property. And I have my solution for the long haul on how to deal with people who do not take care of rentals. Uh, and I would like to point out to, there’s something I tell the renters all the time, it’s like, Hey, if you go and rent a car.
And you trash it, and you take it back to the owner and say, Hey, I need you to fix this car, that I trashed? What do you think the odds are they’re going to fix it without charging. It’s going to happen that you’re going to get charged. Somehow the rental property laws have got so messed up that it protects the renters. So much that now the owner has tremendous losses.
This particular house actually had somebody they were they couldn’t pay their rent. They were going to have to leave. So on the Friday they were going to have to leave that Thursday afternoon, the boy came home from school, 15-year old boy took towels into the bathroom floor, which was tile. Put them in a pile, then went and got gasoline poured it on the, the towel. Set it on fire and ran out the door and yelled, “Hey, my house is on fire, my house is on fire.” When everybody tried to come and help. Multiple people did. He refused to let them through the door. He’s like. Stop trespassing, trespassing. So the house is on fire. And he was stopping people from coming. So what they actually were doing is a is a pretty good little scheme.
You don’t have to set your house on fire to do it. But some tragedy is that they thought and did actually accomplish. That they would get church help and they would get a Red Cross, which they did. Red Cross was here before, within before the Fire Department arrived to the property. The Red cross was here. But guess what? The detectives were here, too. So that boy eventually got charged with arson before he was even an adult.
Uh, and he did a lot of damage in that bedroom. Which, uh, I have to go through the carpet. The carpet actually survived next to it.
Anyway, uh, I’ve had other people who were in the same situation. They were going to be evicted on Friday and on Wednesday said, you know what, you know, screw you, we’re going to. And they went and took a self tapping screw and door and drilled it into the water heater and then called the fire department and the fire department shows up said we can’t fix electrical. So we’re going to have to call the power company. The power company showed up and.
Said We don’t do anything. Inside the house, shut the power off. So they had to move that night. So I can go on and on and perhaps I will some other day, as I remember all the issues, but you know, none of these people who lived here or people that was they owe, every last one of them owed me for being here. More than just being here, me helping them after they were here.
I’ve never had a landlord that would loan me money. I’ve never had a landlord to help me fix my car. I’ve never and I rented guys I’ve rented for years. I’ve never, ever had a landlord like me. But I’m telling you, no matter how nice you are, these people, uh, there are people, and I don’t believe it’s everybody, but there are people. Who are just bad people. They pretend to be nice when they meet you, and after that, they’re going to take advantage. Um, I have a working solution for it. I work on it later, but there’s my opinion.
Went through and completely replaced the front porch for the customer. He did change his mind, so as always, we work to make the customer happy.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Some joke about hands in his pockets–couldn’t make it out 00:19 We are lowering the deck down and completely re-doing it 00:29 Dug out an area to pour concrete 00:39 Stom coming so we had to hurry. We poured concrete 01:05 Framed in the deck, it is bigger than they had 01:17 Will have steps on both sides after done 01:48 Put even steps like the other side 02:20 The final product
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Hey guys, you see me with my hands in my pockets more this year it will be because I like my pockets??? The project we’ve got here, lowering that deck down so that whenever snow gets on there it doesn’t catch. We’re going to be 5 inches down. So that it will slip off the sides. It’s going to be low enough that we’re probably not going to put handrails off to the sides. And then the steps going to go on top of the concrete here that we’re going to pour. Which we’ve already dug out, you missed out on that. Little bit of sweat, when we got to that. So we’ll give you videos as we go along.
We had to get in a hurry because we’ve got a storm coming. So we did. Sorry we didn’t take you all the way through this. But to explain we had makes the concrete. Put it in. Finished it, to get some soup on top and get the rocks down. Rush finish on that, hopefully that’ll be as you can see, it’s green stuff they call green concrete. And this is, you know, older, gray. That’ll turn gray and it’ll be almost light gray tomorrow. Then we frame to a bigger the actually deck was smaller than is now. And we made it bigger so they could come out around the door. The step will be over that way. And then they can go in with the groceries. And then what I did over here was I split the steps. So it has three even distances. Later on.
Tomorrow, we’re going to fill all this in with solid wood. All that will be solid wood. And then we’ll do the same on this side tomorrow. We’ll see more tomorrow.
What we’ve done is made it with the steps are even like we did on the other side. This is how we supported it, because it’s less than five and a half inch. It’s as far as width support. We had to use 2 to 4 and then support them and we used materials we had here, and maybe more than what we needed.
And so we’ll fill this in with, with two by sixes and then we’ll come along and fill all this solid underneath, all the way around and it will hold up to heavy duty loads.
Hi guys. This is the final decision. He changed his mind and wanted to put some handrails up and we put some handrails up and filled in everything solid. Later on, whenever the moisture gets out of the boards, two months, three months. We’ll stain it and probably paint this too.
At the same time accent color all the steps are even. And now, when he puts a carport over here, he can get it from either vehicle. So job is accomplished, and everybody’s happy.
How to put in a safer porch, with wide landings and a shallow stair height.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Helping an older couple with access to their tornado shelter 00:27 These steps are uneven and varying heights 00:40 With the differences, you are more likely to miss a step 01:30 First platform is framed in 02:11 How to put a porch in by yourself and keep it level 02:30 You can do increments of 3, 4, 5 then check it for square 04:30 Why I use 4x4s instead of blocks 05:25 Using cap blocks under our 4x4s 05:45 Back after putting in the 4x4s 05:55 Changed things up to make the customer safer 06:10 Much easier to cut your 4x4s and then put them up 06:25 Want to measure from block to top and add 28.5″ 06:37 Don’t do 42″ because it’s too high for comfort 07:18 We have made a frame 07:47 Handrail won’t go all the way so they can get off the stair either way 08:00 We put supports in the corners 08:25 Next we’ll put in the floor 08:35 End of the job
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Today. We’re going to try to help our older couple have a little more safe way to their tornado shelters. Usually when you go to a tornado shelter, you’re not doing it in a very casual manner. you’re like in a hurry. And this is kind of the detiorating pretty bad. And what I noticed is there’s a lot of different heights.
First of all, this one is like 8, 9 inches depending on where it is. This one is six and three quarters. That one is seven and this one is two and a half, 3, 3 inches. So what happens is when you’re in a hurry, you miss a step and then you fall down. That’s a bad thing. When you fall down, and you’re older, you don’t get up as well and things come off of you when you fall, like Bill Cosby said.
So what I want to do is make a wider platform so they can literally open the door and stand on the platform and then walk toward that. And I will do it instead of seven inches, which is the normal step height. I’m going to do it in five and a half inch. So I want this step, which actually has a lip in here to be five and a half inches down to the finish.
So it’ll be seven inches when that frame is built. That we’ll build and we’ll build it out six foot, four foot wide. That’s my plan. We were going to show you how we do it as we go along.
That’s what I decided to do, is do it even though I wasn’t going to I decided to go ahead and do a six foot area, and four foot wide. So, that when we put a 4×4 here and a 4×4 there. They can come out here and actually get themselves together and then come off of here. Well, I’m looking at now is we’ve made the frame with a every two foot a stud, which that’s in the center of two foot and there’s three screws per temporally fastened to there.
I don’t rely on that. What we’ll be doing next is, of course, when you put these up temporarily, I used to do this by myself, I’d fastened it up there in a temporary fashion and then put screw in hold it up. Screw it, hold it up, screw it and then check it again, then check it for square. Now, when you check the square, you can use a framing square that be accurate, buh on a smaller area.
But you can do any increment of three or four or five. Now, okay, that sounds really simple, but it’s not. So what you do, you go inside or outside. In this case, I’m going inside. I can go three foot, which is 36, not marked on this right there. And then four foot from the inside would be too far.
So let’s go. Hmmm, let’s do done down to 30. Maybe I can catch it this way. 30. 40, 40 inches. And it should be if it’s square, it should be exactly 50, but it’s three, four or five. Any increment of three, four, five. So three foot, four foot, five foot, it can be 30 foot, 40 foot, 50 foot. And that’s a long stretch. You have a lot of sag.
You can that’s not working out real well anyways. Three, four or five, three foot, four foot, five foot. This is not big enough to do that. You would use a frame and square and then you can pick this up by yourself and move it. It might be very difficult, but you can move. I’ve moved 16 by 16 foot deck, by myself doing 16 foot sections and then you can readjust their height on that.
But it’s three foot, four foot, five foot or six foot, eight foot, ten foot. It will do that every time. Be dead on square. What we’re going to put it in the 4x4s I use instead of using which I have brand new blocks. Instead of using pier pads or pier blocks that they have or it has the 4×4 goes exactly in. I don’t like those for, uh. The biggest reason is if if it’s not if it’s when the deck settles, you can’t hardly get a shim in there.
So you get trying to end up being creative. How to how to shim it. Then you got people that like, oh, I want in concrete. Okay, here’s what happens if the water settles around that top of that concrete and it rots off the wood right there, or it just rots out the wood right there because that’s what it does.
There are exceptions when you get to bigger and bigger wood that you can, but you’re going to you’re going to look at better to have the bracket on top of concrete if you’re going to do that. But in this case, we’re not hardly having any weight at all. We’re going to put half pads with our, what they call cap blocks, which is four inch by eight, four inches by eight inches wide by 16 inches long solid.
And this is an old one and I’ll put them underneath the 4x4s that will be supporting this. And I’ll show you a picture of that.
Hi guys, we’re back, a little further along with the 4x4s in the corners. I’ve got three screws in everything. You’re going to see me doing that all the time. I changed it up. I like the idea of being able to go through there to the walkway and them have handrails on both sides closed. So I changed it so I wouldn’t have to square off and then do a jog. So how do I get the 4x4s? It’s a lot easier to cut them before you put them up there.
And then trying to take a sawzall and not cut into the house. So what I normally do is I measure up from whenever we’re level with this support here.
Measure it from the block to the top. I’m going to add 28 and a half inches, which ends up being the height, which can be 30, 32. I don’t like the 42 that they use because when you sit down either in the house or on your deck, you can’t see over the handrails. It’s not comfortable when you sit in on your chair because ends up being the glass is up here.
The arm would be right on that 30 inch, 32, 28, 29 inch area. These people are a little shorter leaning over a little bit. So I made it where it’s not very high. We’re going to put a 2×6 on top of that.
So if you notice we’ve got all this put in place and I’ll show you the next part we’re going to put on, and I’ll show you each step as we go. So what we’ve done now is make a three foot by eight foot frame. We’ve supported it here on these areas were only 5.5” inches, the thickness of this I don’t put a block because they end up being so flimsy it wouldn’t do any good to have it in there. The other side. I don’t I don’t want to.
Lose this strength where I can as far as being on the ground and I don’t want them stepping off on a higher step. So I’ve put those two on blocks and these two not. We’re going to make the handrail go to here. That way they can go this direction if they want to, or downhill, if they want to. And if you notice, of course everything is leveled up, we put in supports around here so that when we cut the two bys that we’re going to put a 2×6 and put across here, we’ll have something to sit on.
It won’t just sit floating around. This areas on the outside because I want to keep a three foot width, you know, so that they would have more width here. People can get bigger. But anyway, there’s the next step. What we’re going to go do next is put in the floor and we’re going to put the handrails.
“OK, Yep. Sorry.”
The 2x6s are what we put on top. We put a 2×4 underneath that supports the 2×6 and it’s something in case they wanted to put stas in. Put one at about seven inches so nobody slips off and also if you put the balustrades in you can fasten it to that. We 45’d this, we fastened all of the flooring with three inch, three screws each.
And this is far, I can get real fancy. It costs a lot more money. But this is way more than what they expected. So you can do the same thing. We’re all Amerians not American’ts.
Walk through of the complete metal roof. This is the end of a big commercial roof.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Walk through on the roof 00:15 Some of the penetrations we had 00:50 To the end of one side of the roof 01:30 The L-shaped part of the roof 02:24 Ground view of the roof
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Updated 1-11-23 Comparing rain on a metal roof and what happens on a shingle roof 🙏 Subscribe, 👍, it helps a lot!!➤❓/ 💬: ask@straightarrowrepair.com➤ Follow https://straightarrowrepair.com/pipf
Phil shows you how to install valley foam on a metal roof. Sorry about the sound quality, there is a transcript of what he’s saying.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 You’ll want to put valley foam in, especially in snowy climates 00:23 Don’t unroll it until you’re ready to do the total area 00:39 Take the screws out and slide it under the edge of the metal in your valleys 01:00 Pulling the cover for the sticky side 01:30 Try to keep the tape low or you will cut it
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Transcript: Probably would or should. There’s a lot of road noise, sorry. Should put valley foam in. Particularly when it snows, the water will go up that valley and go down underneath it, and will find a hole. This is valley foam. It comes in rolls as soon as you unroll this you need to prepare. It will continue to expand, and it expands to two and a half inches thick. So, it’s meant to grow to the odd the angles that you put these valleys on and fill these ribs up with foam. So, the trick is going to be take these screws out, about 16 inches back that you’ve already put in. The screws should be an inch or two away so that they don’t end up being in on the wrong side of the valley foam.
So, what you have got to do is take those screws out go to lift it up, and stick it underneath that edge. But uh, it’s a pain sometimes because you’ve got deep hooks on that edge, and slide it underneath there with the sticky side, which would be this side here and it turns into clear right there down underneath. And then you, we’ll show you how you can just pull it all off. As long as you keep it there. Under the roll there’s a little strip to help you could grab it, put that underneath there, and you want to keep it low or you’re going to end up cutting your, your peal off and you’ll have to reach under there and get it again. It’s kind of a pain, but just keep it low and ends up sticking like that. See that, I cut it so I have to reach under there and grab it anyway. Just keep peeling it up and then that will stay in place and you put your screws back in.
This shows you exactly how to install metal roof ridge caps. Phil walks you through each job step-by-step so you can work on your own roof.
How to DIY the metal ridge caps on a large metal roof. We will put the entire video together.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Start of Ridge Cap 00:23 How to lap your Ridge Cap over-want to lap away from the drive way 01:00 Popping a line and adding your foam, goes above the line 01:40 Want to avoid the driving rain 03:42 Putting down the Ridge Cap 04:30 Why you want to tack each side of the ridge cap and then do the middle 05:00 Want to screw every other rib
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Your ridge cap can be a lot of different sizes a lot of different widths, you can get used to have a really wide and this is actually 12 inches across 12 and a quarter 12 and a half. So I’m gonna choose to go five and a half inches, both sides to pop my lines, and then we’re gonna put foam on those lines.
And I’ll show you that.
But one of the things that comes up with the ridge cap is when you lap it over. If he pulled his driveway he’s pulling up this way, you don’t want that lap to be very visible. So like a vinyl siding. So you’re trying to make this side lap over that and you don’t see it as anything but uniform.
So that’s what we did. On this one, the traffic is all over there, and the laps are visible from this direction Not that. So that’s what you need to keep in mind, and we’ll show you what we’re gonna do is really pop their lines measured five and a half from each way on the peak.
And this is where the foam closure is gonna go. And it will go above the linethe foam closure is meant to go over.that line It has sticky stuff to hold it in place. And you can get it without being sticky. If you want to put it in after the fact. After you put the ridge on, it’s kind of hard to deal with that right now also have a closure that breathes like a vent if you had a vent up here, they can breathe in and out and still keep the water out.
So what we’re trying to do is make sure that the water doesn’t get in by driving rain So it has a male female connection there. And then recall above our chalk line be so hot that this stuff would slide down the roof. There was nothing that would as a rule, I don’t get to get to terrible far ahead. Unless I think the weather’s gonna be clear.
Because wind could make a mess and blow your stuff on I am a gambler. when it comes to this gonna put right over that they won’t be able to see the ridge cap. Although I can make a decorative end There you go. We’ll break away to show you how we put down the ridge cap This is a 12 inch you can change the angles the pitch when you order.
Basically relying on my foam to kind of push me where I need to be. It’s telling me Hey, I need to be a little bit.past I’m gonna screw through into the rib I don’t usually bother with this because I am going to put rake over that don’t need another thing to be in the way and I go to the other end.
You try to work it from that side. You’ll end up twisting around on it and it’ll be a battle he’ll take it back and back and forth apart so I don’t do that. And then I do it every other rib from there believe me I’ve never had one blow off.
If you scratch this stuff, they got like a nail polish bottle in the color that you have to ask your supplier don’t like these screws them but here I am using these have kinda got a self drilling tip on them and they wobble a lot There you go, we just decide what direction you want screw off every other one.
And your ridge cap is on no water is going to blow up over and get up in the peak and then leak down whatever screw it wants to on the bottom. Every time somebody says hey, I got a metal roof but my roof is leaking.
So we’re at you know, and generally is hit by a roof vent that’s not been sealed in years because I figured once I got a shingle or a metal roof, they don’t ever have to do any maintenance but you do.
But the classic one is where they decide not to put the closure in and therefore the wind drives that water up and goes over that and then goes down the metal through whatever hole it finds.
So it’s good to put the closure even though it’s got a shingle roof below it.
Phil walks you through how to seal penetrations and look super pro doing it.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 Put tape around the flange 00:25 When you pull tape off magically square 00:52 Any kind of caulking will shrink 01:36 How to get tar off you 01:55 And you look like a pro
Transcript: What we’ve done now is put tape around the flange about an inch and half to two inches away where you can get the elasticool or tar to bind to the metal. And then I make sure that I cover up any nail holes that might have been there. And spread it out, try to feather it out near the tape. And that way.
When we pull the tape off, it looks like you did a perfectly good square. Even though you might have gotten over into the tape quite a bit. It’s what I’ve been doing for years and years. And I know there’s people that say you should use this, but I’m telling you this works and works good, easy to maintain, inexpensive and any kind of caulking shrinks. It really shrinks. When we pull this tape off it will have square edges. We’ll show you tearing the tape off later.
I’m cleaning this and I’m going to try not to get the poo on me.
“And how can you get tar off if you get in a place that.”
Any kind of oil-based product oil, wd40, gasoline is kind of hard on your skin, but any kind of oil will get it off. After that it’s a hot bath. There you go.
“That does look really cool.”
It’s looks from the ground like you know what you’re doing.
Updated 1-11-23 What you need to do to prepare a mobile home for a new metal roof. Using a Ryobi Impact gun probably the best math out there for tools. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 On top of a mobile home roof00:30 Want to start by sealing up all your penetrations00:40 Elastomeric coating at Lowe’s01:00 Wrinkles on rounded roof … Read more
How to measure and cut the metal on a valley for metal roof.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 One of the tricky parts of doing a valley 00:48 Want to find the angle 01:06 Take a squared off piece, generally 36″ 01:37 Keep it square with the piece you’re measuring from 01:48 Other side even with the line you popped 02:05 Measure where you will lap, not the edge 02:30 When you get your angle, that will tell you where to pop a line to keep square 02:50 Measure up the roof 03:22 Cutting once you have your measurements 04:20 Here’s where your angle comes in, go 38 1/4 up 05:10 How to cut if you work by yourself 06:10 Pop your line to cut the metal roofing 06:35 Types of snipes you can use 07:05 Trick for cutting metal roofing 08:35 Trick when placing your metal-run it along the rib 09:20 Want to screw into your 2 ft centers, keeps metal on even during high winds 10:00 Stay 2-3″ up because will put in valley foam 10:25 Now you know the valley angle, you should be able to pop your lines 10:35 Check at first then you know your angles 11:00 Metal roof valley going down need to determine the angle
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Doing a valley is getting the angles righthand I’ll show you how I do it. And of course, there’s other ways to do it. This is what I’m seeing some of them ever since before. And I’ve helped a lot already got started.
But it’s basically what I do is I take you’re going to be any color and this works. I wait for traffic and airplane traffic here. So what I’m trying to do is find the angle for this. So what I’m going to do is take a squared off, piece generally wanted to be around 36 inches or, or more than the mark it might notice that I’m kind of cautious on this roof because it’s best Be careful if you’re going to get on my recommendation to get on it.when it’s wet Alright, not that great.
So they don’t have this. So as straight as possible, then you want this point right here, which is not the lip, but actually decided the rib. To me, even with that line, if you popped. Get that you can take a pencil and mark it quite often I just take a tape measure and the classic mistake, which I’ve done bunches of times, as you measure on this,side I was thinking oh yeah, this is what I gotta do. But you don’t, because it laps over, it’s got to go down to the bottom of the other side.
So that won’t change the angle. This is 38 and a quarter angle. So I know that whatever the length of this is, I need whenever it’s square to cross I need to go 38 and a quarter up on this side and then pop a line or mark a line with a straight edge a then cut across, which I’ll show you that.
So what we’re doing next is getting this out of the way so I don’t fall off the roof. Measuring up the roof 243 All right, we’ll take it to the next level, we start measuring up that one angle, we’re gonna go down 243 although you can mark right here, if you can find it down on the side and 243.
So what I’m gonna do is measure from this end 39 three quarters and do the same over here. That way we have this point that was the same to me. We could pop a line across. We’re gonna do. We didn’t know that it’s 38 and a quarter up on that angle because we took that squared piece, which would be the same as going up there and 38 and a quarter, but we’re gonna go over here. In that point that we measured from here, you could do 243 over there.
Same thing, just a little shorter. We pulled that way. Then I go 38 and a quarter up on that. Shadow made a mark here. And it’s got to go to that 243 mark over there. So what I normally do when I work by myself, God bless your soul if you do work by yourself. Gotcha.
And I take my chalk line got to work in chuckling I thought I did. Remember it’s not to that marks to the one on the side. And they kind of hold a little bit on the loose, so it will pop down it. There’s the angle. These are us straights yellow handles but you can use green or red.
They just have stronger strength to turn left with green. I think it’s strong strength to turn right with red where straights a stronger going straight, but we can go left or right just they’re not as good.
Now one of the tricks that i was showing people earlier is I lift up on one side hold down the other side kind of encourage it to tear and then I use the snips to tell him where to tear turns a little bit sideways so I don’t have to interfere with where the metal folds up. Either cutting your hand or just getting in the way of working. There we go.
That’s how that part is done. I’ll show you some more as we go along. What I been doing is putting it on the rib taking care not to scratch existing metal and trying to sliding as close as I can.to the edge Already got some screws on to two-foot centers.
I’ve seen it wider but I’ve never had a roof off center. I had a tornado warning. That’s it. The match tree damage. Trees either make a dent or sometimes in the country from the impact to foot center. I’ve never had a problem, so I’m not going to fix it. They want to stay in.
Now, whenever you’re screwing this off, you don’t want to get real close to the edge like stay about two or three inches up. Reason is we’re going to put in Valley foam afterwards. And I’ll show you how that’s done later, but you just do the same thing. You don’t have to measure every time now you know what that angle is, unless somehow changes back and forth.
We should have a straight valley where you pop the land on the sides and put it straight. So that angle B 38 and a quarter all the way up on this one.
We will check every one of them whenever I first started out, so I encourage you to be careful. But you can do it yourself. Just be careful. You got your friends. Again, watch the wind. You can take both of you off the roof. It gets to be too windy, just stop but it live another day.
Like better to be a live dog than a dead lion alright guys we did valley where you’re coming up.
This is going down and getting enabled. So what we had to do was determine that angle also. point this is gonna keep it straight to our line down below. And it’s showing. So that would be how you would get your angle. on the long side you have to cut it down
How to cut for penetrations in a metal roof. We are putting the metal directly over the shingles. Your shingles act as both barrier and insulation, and save a massive amount on your labor costs. Doesn’t matter if you are DIYing the project or paying someone. We all only have so much time.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️ 00:00 You will usually need to cut the metal for roof penetrations 00:17 How you need to measure it 00:49 Marking the metal 01:45 Tip to cut out the penetration 03:30 We have all the tools, but try to give you ways to do the job with simple tools too 03:57 How to seal the flange over the metal ridges 05:00 Fasten from the middle and move out to keep it spread out 07:15 Why I don’t use sealant
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Okay, guys, there’s another delema that you run into is having to cut the penetrations for the roof. In this case it doesn’t fallout anywhere on. It’s going to go right over the top.
What I’m going to do again is to lap over, going to measure to show 4″ to 14. Then measured from the top need 13, which I can actually write there, make a mark and 23. That’s the area that I’m going to cut it and then I’ll show you how I cut. One of the ways that I can cut.
Okay, the 13 and the 4″. Let’s see a 4″ and a 14, actually. A four right there, right beside the rib. 14 right there, and then there’s a mark right here here, so we can… See the mark is right here. All right, so we have a square here, that we’re going to cut out.
Now, you can get snips and then cut it. But a lot of times it ends up being a real nuisance. Usually I use a sharper screwdriver than this, let’s see what happens. Using the hammer. To drive that edge through. We’re hitting that screwdriver. A lot of times it won’t go all the way through one side, from one direction. So you go…. There’s your hole.
So I have four different kinds of cutters at the Shears. I have the dual wheel, that spins different directions. I have nibblers, I have all kinds of cutters. You can use a saw and turn the saw blade backwards.
All of them have a risk of stuff getting in your eye. So this is not an old man. You, me? I’m old now, so you can do this without. Any special tools. We’re putting the vent over a hole that was cut. If you noticed the vent is much, the flange is much bigger than the ribs. So, what I do is I get the center of where that rib is going to be might no fall exactly in the center of the vent. And then I cut so that there’s a v, and then I can fasten these down. And these on the outside edge when it’s close like that I’ll let it get mashed down and fold it over.
But I’m going to do it on the top. Also. All right, and then when you fasten, you want to make sure you start in the middle, work your way out. That way. Everything’s so I’m spreading myself out. I’m going to go to the top.
You see how that vent, that v that I cut in that vent flange that’s around that metal to wrap down around. That way I can seal it all up, and it will have a good tight fit before you can get to sealing it. I don’t recommend using a screw gun for a hammer.
I’m going to tell you something about sealant before I even show you how I do it. A lot of people, you’ve got some really high engineered and expensive silicones that come in tubes and they work, okay. Anything that comes in a tube, is going to shrink and that’s why I quit using it. Because I got a ton of leaks and keep going back, because it shrinks after it dries. A little bit here and there. So I don’t do that anymore. No matter that companies are encouraging you to buy their thing.
Updated 1-9-23 Installing a ceramic backsplash and changing the lighting in a mobile home bathroom, on a budget. Ever wonder if you can do that fancy ceramic design on your trailer?? Phil shows how fancy you can make your mobile home. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 We’re going to show you what you can do on a mobile home00:15 … Read more
Here is all of the pictures and video for the moble home in Rogers, AR that we did. When the customer first contacted us all he wanted was to have the deck completed by the end of Aug. for a birthday party. After completing the deck the customer kept adding different jobs for use to … Read more
This job is improving on an older mobile home. We put a ceramic tile backsplash in both the kitchen and bathroom of the trailer. In the bathroom, we rearranged the lighting and spruced it up. The trailer is one that we have been sprucing up for the couple for over a year. We do the … Read more
We started with a custom deck for this customer, but the more he saw our work the more he added onto the job. We have done: Large Wooden Deck, Metal Roof, Skirting, and privacy fence. When we first started, he said he would be thrilled if we could only have the deck completed by the … Read more
We put a metal roof on a shed in Bella Vista, AR. It had a shingled roof that was leaking and the customer wanted the property improved to sell it. Here is a comparison of the Bella Vista shed: Shed in Bella Vista Before: Shed in Bella Vista After:
Updated 1-8-23 We started with a custom wooden deck for this customer, but the more he saw our work, the more he added onto the job. We have done: Large Wooden Deck, Metal Roof, Skirting, and privacy fence. We’re just walking you through the job. When we first started, he said he would be thrilled … Read more
Updated 1-8-23 Phil’s view point on using old trucks. We try to avoid payment, keep our overhead low. This gives us the freedom to live and not panic if one of our businesses slows down. He sticks to the early 90s to late 90s trucks; they are simply better trucks. Much easier to work on. … Read more
What you need to know about metal siding. Tips and tricks about what you can do with the metal siding, remove dents, cover with siding, even paint. He’s talking about the original metal the trailer, mobile home comes with. ⏱️Chapters00:00 Talking About Metal Siding00:20 Extremely hard to match colors01:13 If you cover with vinyl, the … Read more
