Mobile Home Floor Repair Caused By Air Conditioner

Complete floor repair, damages cause by an air conditioner leak. Here’s the complete AC problem and floor repair. Thought you might want the whole video. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Intro00:12 Window units and issues they can have01:22 Why you need a downhill tilt01:50 Two repair guys later, and the floor had been ruined02:05 Another issue, it could be … Read more

Supporting A Water Heater

Now the guys are under the house adding floor support for a water heater so it won’t go crashing through the floor. Lots of water damage to the floor of the house. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Intro00:12 Tim fell in the cold water00:45 They are balancing trying to stay out of the water under this house00:55 They have … Read more

Replacing Floor Joists

Updated 7-18-23 Phil and the guys walk you through how to support a floor. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Most irritating thing when he first started out00:15 This is something that someone else started on00:30 The floor was caving in00:50 Floor joist broke01:10 The hallway needs to be fixed too01:35 Put in new floor joists where it’s needed01:50 Put … Read more

Damaged Flooring Repair Tear Out

Updated 1-30-23 The guys are putting in a new floor. ? Subscribe, ?, it helps a lot!!➤❓/ ?:➤ Follow ➤➤I get a little for the channel-no charge for you if you use the links:➤➤Shop Amazon➤➤Tool lists & recommended products?

Floor Repair Water Heater Damage

Updated 2-11-23 Phil walks you through repairing damage to a mobile home floor and manages to save the carpet. ? Subscribe, ?, it helps a lot!!➤❓/ ?:➤ Follow ➤➤I get a little for the channel-no charge for you if you use the links:➤➤Shop Amazon➤➤Tool lists & recommended products?

Rebuilding Floor Joists and Plywood Once Rotted – Floor Repair 12-19

Rebuilding Floor Joists and Plywood Once Rotted

Updated 3-30-23 They rebuild and replace the floor joists and the floor. You can follow along and should be able to do it yourself. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Rental house. We had to clean up and haul trash before could repair00:15 Hauled off 4,400 lbs of trash00:30 Problem is floor joists because of the filter being clogged up01:25 … Read more

Floor Damage from AC Unit Halted Here’s How!

Updated 2-8-23 Phil is repairing the subfloor, water damaged from a leaking AC unit. In this video he shows you several little tips to make your work look professional. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Your floor joists in a mobile home00:50 Cable wire we need to watch for01:10 Interesting situation by the wall01:38 To help support the weight01:52 In … Read more

Mobile Home Subfloor – Water Damage Repair

Mobile Home Subfloor - Water Damage Repair

Updated 1-12-23

When you’re central heating and air leaks, make sure and check the floors. Phil shows you what to check on your a/c to prevent this problem. Then they take the toilet out and start repairing the subfloor.

00:00 We’re finishing up a job someone else started
00:10 They called to have him explain it and then wanted to just have us fix it
00:26 First thing he sees is the a/c has leaked more than once
01:00 There’s a coil here that freezes up
01:22 Has a plastic overflow pan, but not very big
01:35 Need to clean the a-coil at least once a year
02:02 We recommend you keep the a/c clean for it to run good
03:07 First thing is to take off the door, so it’s not in the way
03:56 Quick tip on how to fix doors not working, bent hinges
04:37 Easy way to make the place better
04:50 Next we’re going to make a starting point to pull the bad floor out
05:10 They put the linoleum down before the walls at the factory
05:26 We’re going to replace it with house type. You can put house type materials in the mobile home
05:51 There are always obstacles, want to watch for water and electric lines
06:12 Want to run a shallow, long cut with the sawzall
06:48 Have an oscillating saw, which is cheap and we keep finding more uses for
07:15 Pulling the toilet up
07:51 You can take a hacksaw to get the nuts off
08:06 Want to take the lid off, and then best place to put the toilet is in the tub
08:20 If you try putting in another room, the trap can spill water
08:43 Things you want to keep in mind when working. If you break the top, not likely to be able to replace it.
09:11 The rusty bolts aren’t always because of a leak
10:29 Cut the bolts off and ready to move the toilet
10:52 When you get the toilet up you want to plug that hole with something while you’re working
11:20 This floor vent is smaller than usual
11:34 A lot of times if you’re losing a/c or heat it will be because this is loose. Easy fix
12:20 We use screws, never staple the vents back in like the factory does
13:04 We’ve taken a sawzall and cut under the wall at an angle to avoid lines
13:32 This wall is a little difficult because floor joist is just under the wall
14:00 With flooring, sometimes you can cut it in the middle and take it out in big chunks
14:20 Putting in the floor supports
14:57 How to pull up floor supports that are down
15:53: The ductwork is odd, not something we’ve seen before
16:25 So, we need to support the floor there to make sure the ductwork isn’t smashed
17:09 That plastic barrier is why you don’t have to have a vapor barrier on the ground under a mobile home
17:32 If you want to hold water under your house, put plastic on the ground
17:57 Mobile homes have the vapor barrier against the house, holding the insulation in
19:00 Where we’re putting the support and why
19:30 Measured and cut the 2×6 for under the cabinet
21:00 Supporting the entire area where the ductwork is
21:42 Pre-drilling the area
22:43 Ready to lay the plywood
23:06 Want to run the plywood across the two bys, not with them

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Uh, this is us trying to finish up what someone else started actually called me out and said, hey, can you explain things on how to do it? And I did. And they got. It’s discouraging at first if you don’t have experience,or haven’t watched one of these videos, maybe. But he got started and we’re going to finish it up. The first thing I see whenever I got here is, although this is a wet area where you got a toilet that could leak, a sink that can leak, a bathtub that could overflow or leak.

It looks like the air conditioner central heating air has been leaking down. They’ve already replace the floor once and it’s been running down through here. And this had linoleum. And then they took the linoleum up, and then it got underneath the linoleum, which is quite likely what happens is you come over here with the. There’s a coil. If you don’t change, the filters sometimes they are in the door. This works just fine. If you don’t change the filters like this one’s totally clogged up, this thing will ice up and it will overflow. There’s a plastic pan right here. It doesn’t have very much room. Let me see if I can get this light.

“Ya, that’s better.”

That light in there. See, that’s not much of a pan. And you need to clean these coils once a year at least. So there’s a drain that comes out of this pan right here. You need to clean that out once a year, at least. And so clean your coil, clean those things, and change your filter every month. But this wasn’t done. So it overflow, went down, hit the floor, and soaked back and went back into here.

I can promise you that’s what happened. So what I recommend to avoid this and for your air conditioner to run good is to clean the coil that way it pulls air through it regularly and like it’s supposed to and change your filters again. The same as if you took your car and put your, you know, mud over top of the radiator or put your hand over your mouth running up a hill.

You’re asking a lot of that air conditioner and it will freeze up if it’s restricted that way or if it’s low freon or freeze up, go past the pan, which it only has like a half inch of room in this case, and then it’ll just run water down and then you’ll have water damage on top of the non running properly air conditioner.

So we’re going to fix what they ask me to fix in this case this customer. The renter is a very good renter in that the renter actually tries to fix things, but lack of experience kind of discouraged him. So the first thing we’re going to do is take off this door so it’s not in the way for doing what we need to do there.

And then we can get real close to the edges and what I normally do is just take the hinges loose. This is way I can put them right back. You can almost always see where they did go, and I usually do the… The bottom first, put my foot underneath this. Elbow’s kind of holding it to the wall.

Then I put the screws over here. By the way, a lot of times people say, well, my door doesn’t work. What do I do? It’s got a problem. See how this if you notice right here, this hinge is bent because it’s bent this door will be having a tendency to be tight over here. What you can do. Let me see that hammer right there, by you.

“All right,”

Just flip that hinge over to the door. Little cheapy hinges. Just flatten the hinge out. And guess what? It’ll work for a while longer. This one is bent also not very much. Not yet where it’s a problem. But I already know in order to make my work look right, you know, fix the door and they’re like hey, something feels better about this place.

So, when we put that… What we’re going to do next is I’ll make a starting point with like a hammer, get real close, we’ll being and prime this batten strip up because it’s nothing there. But to seal the bottom of the drywall, it really is not much in the way of trim. And they put this linoleum down before they put the walls down. So the walls, they don’t have to cut it.

They just roll it over at the factory and then put the wall on top. So the trim is not covering the edges of the linoleum or tile, which they don’t have tile. So we’re going to replace that with a regular house type.
That’s usually my goal is to make a mobile home a lot more like a house, a conventional home, than to try to say, Oh, well, it‘s a mobile home, you can’t do it.

So here we go and I’m going to. There’s a vent here, in this case, but there’s always obstacles if you notice over here. Bring that camera.


There’s water lines and quite often, there’s electric lines. So you don’t want to run deep cut with a sawzall and then hit a water line. Because I’ve done that, and it ain’t no fun. So what I end up doing is run a shallow, long cut with the sawzall, and in this case, you’re going to have to be careful not to get into the duct work which you can patch.

But it’s better not to just do the damage. You know, we’re not going to use this three-eighths or half inch plywood that I guess they put in here to walk on. And we’re going to probably replace that over there by the doorway because that doesn’t look right either. So we’re going to cut all this out with a sawzall.

I have an oscillating saw, which we’ve had more and more ways to use. Didn’t buy anything expensive. Like we got it from Harbor Freight. It’s like $20 for a cheapy one. The blades for a package of them it’s like $9 package of three which get one cut blade and two scrapers. So for very little money, you can be doing this yourself and I’ll try to take you on very slowly through all this.

Looking at the… We want to get this out of the way whenever you start taking the toilet out. And one, you want to take this loose. If you’re in a house that hasn’t had the tremendous amount of damage like this one, you’re going to want to put a towel down because the remainder of the tank in here, after you shut it off
and flushed, it will still run water down on the floor.

And then you create more damage, which can take a little while to show up. But anyway. Put a towel down and take this loose. In this case, we know we’re not going to be able to get these nuts through all that rust. As a rule, you won’t you can use a hacksaw. In this case I’m using the, a Ryobi battery powered Sawzall, and we’re going to cut these off.

And we’re going to lift this toliet up. We’re going to take this lid, placed it in another room and then put the toilet in here quite often we’ve put a rag and set the toilet on that, but reason to do that is because if you try to move it into another room, the trap inside this toilet, it will run water on to the floor because you’re moving around.

And what we do is put it in here on the rag, and rock it back and forth and all the water, most of the water it never gets all the water will go into the bathtub and then we can just left it back in here when we get the floor in, so these are things you need to be conscious of.

You want to protect your tops. So you don’t lose it, drop it and break it and then you gotta, these are. You’re just not going to find one like it they they buy things in lots and when the manufacturer runs out of
those. They move on to another and then make a deal with another manufacture or those manufacturers may not even be in business and they certainly may not have made that toilet anymore.

So as far as the the rusty bolts, not always. Is it because of a leak? A lot of times it’s because the water inside here, which comes from outside through the ground, it cool it’s cool. And so, like when you’re sick and you’re feeling really good, put your head up against a cold toilet. They call that toilet cold temperature where the warmer temperature inside causes condensation and ends up collecting down here and making these rust and have a decorative cover on there doesn’t change that.

The moisture is still going to be there. So that’s not unusual. Even in a high dollar house, even with a bidet, you’re going to have some condensation because the change in color, they don’t make insulated toilets, that I’m aware of. So I put my hand on there and I can feel just a little bit of moisture. Is it going to cause the floor to go?

No, it’s not that much moisture, but it hits this metal and collects around it and this is what happens. So you’re going to want to cut this off and you can use a hacksaw. So we’re using metal cutting blade. In this case, that’ll be…

We cut the bolts off with the sawzall. It usually doesn’t. Do any kind of porcelain and took the lid off. Put it out of here. We’re going to lift this thing out and expect a spit a little water. In this case, it wasn’t very much. Next, when you get that toilet it up, you’re going to want to put something in there to toilet paper. Otherwise, you’re going to get all the fumes, which is why the traps are there, on sinks
and there’s a trap in there on the toilet so the smell doesn’t come up. And anything else it wants to come up.

So there’s always water in there, to stop that smell. So we got to stop that smell by putting something in the hole. This particular vent is smaller than normal. Normally there are like a 4×10”. This one is 4×8. They’re all held on with aluminum, really flimsy aluminum and staples generally.

A lot of times I will, people say man I’m losing a lot of air conditioning underneath the house, because I can feel it when I open up my skirting some of the time.

Some of the issue is this area here on underneath where it connects to the ductwork is got foil tape and it’s open on the corners. You can do that yourself. You pull your vents off and seal it all, make sure everything’s fastened. And sometimes the ductwork is litterally in the cold and these are not holding anything. We’ll pull all of these stapled out and we’ll end up using screws into the plywood and sometimes can be a little more difficult to get the vent in, but not always.

Well, I don’t staple anything, and that’s sometimes theorized that the mobile home factory, the people who work there and have had a piece of trim on a double-wide was in the middle what they call marriage wall. They had over a hundred staples in it and it still has fallen off. So I don’t understand. We see it all the time.

There’ll be six, four, five, six staples in one little tiny area, and then other areas might grow 15 inches. But they kind of they kind of encourage it obviously somehow by putting staples in lots. So what I’ve done here is cut with the sawzall, at a hard angle, like so, in that way I don’t hit an electric line because I’m not going so far under that I cut anything that’s underneath the wall. But stand like so. And then I’ve also done it so that I don’t cut into this ductwork that you can see right here, this looks like a strap, that they left over. Part of the a strap they just left it under there. It happens to be this one is a little more difficult because the wall ends up in the floor joist ends up being right there next to the wall.

But that’s kind of an advantage in that we can put a 2 by right to that. And we’ll set a floor on that and it’s just all brute work. If you watch any of my other videos, you’ll see how I deal with a lot of different
situations when it comes flooring, sometimes you can cut through the middle. In this case, you wouldn’t want to cause there’s ductwork right there, and then step on one side in the other and pull it loose.

Other times you just got to smash it out and get it all out. And that’s what we’re going to do, we’re going to go through here and I’ll show you as we go along, how what we’re going…

Now, we‘re going to screw, there’s a lot of different ways. You can do this. You can like I did on this one, go at an angle through here and then go through here. The goal is to get underneath, to help support the tub. And, also in this case and even with the floor joists. Now, in a case like this where it’s kind of dropping down back there, a lot of times what I can do, put a screw in like so, get this started over on this side and then I’ll try to pull it up and pull the screw back out. Put it over here. That kind of pulled down, I don’t like that. But that’s all right. So in this case, it was kind of an odd.

I’ve not seen it, there’s no reason for this ductwork to go over here. This is outside of the wall. There’s no ductwork running to the sometimes they haven’t flexible ductwork running into the kitchen cabinets. That’s not the case here. For whatever reason, they say the whole trunk and there’s folded up underneath here. So, in this case, you’re not going to see this very often because I haven’t seen in 30 years, but we’re going to put a two by four right here and we’re going to make it, where even though this is smashing into ductwork.

We’re going to put that there. Looks like we’re going to have to go and get some 5/4ths material, which is a little bigger than three quarters of… It’s inch and a quarter, instead of inch and a half. A lot of people
use wood decking, so we’ll put it right there. So we get the most amount of wood along side here, because a two by won’t fit, because this is a really weird situation you don’t normally see ductwork run parallel.

Usually it’s down under and it runs that way is protected by the the plastic barrier, which is why you don’t have to have a plastic barrier on the ground underneath a mobile home even though. So the building code on read your houses having if you put it there water gets underneath that house, it stays there if you want to make a pond but dig a hole, put plastic on the ground and it will hold water for a long time.

Okay. So if you want to hold water under your house, put plastic on the ground, the mobile home here in this case has a vapor barrier which is right here holding the insulation. It protects the plumbing, whereas a house, house has block walls it’s just, you know, around the outside dug into the ground where water doesn’t pass through like it does on skirting on a mobile home and a mobile home, has it’s vapor barrier here, whereas a house puts a vapor barrier on the ground and the insulation is exposed. You don’t want that in your mobile home because you don’t have the block walls to protect you from the wind.

We get into that discussion several times and I get lots of questions and a lot of people talk about Square footage of venting. They’re trying to apply what works with. A house to a mobile home. It doesn’t work, I promise you.

You can put all of the vents that you want and I’ll crawl underneath that house and there will be water, especially if you put plastic on the ground. So in this case, we don’t have that situation. We’re working with a of vapor barrier that’s still here, the insulation still here. There’s actually a frame right here, which is usually about three foot from the outside wall.

And then outriggers to support the ridge beam out there. So this is necessary. We’re going to put a two by here and we’re going to put fine force there. And we’re going to pre-drill holes into this this board so that we can put a two by all the way across here and give us a little more support right here.

And we got to you’re not gonna be able to see anything with my big body in the way, but we’re going to fasten a two by six here, and a two by six over there underneath this cabinet, kind of support it. And then we’ll put a little two by in there and I’ll show you how I cut that two by to do that.

But you won’t be able to see anything if you if you watch me video wise. So we’ll bring you back when we get to the next level. What we’re done is measure this, get a little bit of room and added two inches on each side, which would be a total of four. And then we notched out an inch and a half depth. And that way we can put it in because it’s going to be difficult to hold in place. I mean, I could reach underneath with my arms and let’s put it in there. Looks like we’ll have to cut it down some.

Even though it split we just moved it over a little bit wide gap because we had it like a quarter inch or less too long and he’s made sure that it’s not going to be a problem. So anyway, the now will have support for the foot area. I don’t think anybody ever that fat is going to put that much weight right on their toes, but hey, we’re ready for it if they are.

So now we’ve got to get five-fourths. So I have to go to the mobile home park that I have and see if I can find some five-fourths material or in the other place. We had a hardware store close by and by that, but we’re close to my mobile home park, so we’ll run over there and do that.

The whole area beside the ductwork they got goes to nowhere and we’re putting a five-fourths board to rip down because the depth of their flange on the side and pinches together is not going to make it available for us. We’re hoping we get this squeezed in there, but staples and things like that. My discourage
us trying to get, the two by six, not the…

We’re going to pre-drill. I think it’s like an eighth inch drill bit.

“It is.”

I don’t know what that is.

“A dog.”

That tap, tap, tapping?

“Ya, ya sounds like a creature from the deep underkneith that? Got it all.”

All right now we can lay plywood and screw through something too. And we’ve got the board over here. What we’re going to do next. I want to run my plywood across the two by.

So that way you don’t lose strength. The board is laminated and length this way the tree would have been this way. And we want that to go across the two bys. If you run with it then it might bow in between.

And I don’t want that. So mug way in my dress so 53 and a quarter is what I measure from that wall to that wall. And then we’re going to go out there and roughly measure it and then we’re going to measure all our cuts, which is a lot we’ve got.

If you notice over here, a two by on each side of this that allow us to cut any angle we want to to get that plywood in there. So what we’ll probably do is go at an angle from this point, the center of this floor joist. And angle through this water line and that flange.

To see if we can get that piece in. Quite often end up having to cut that piece and two pieces also. But you will be there when we go outside. We’re going to measure and I got 53 and a quarter and I’ll end up with
a cut at…

There’s that same sound again.

“It’s in the vent.”

34 and seven-eighths.

“It’s coming from that.”

Replacing a Bathroom Floor

Replacing Bathroom Floor

Updated 1-12-23

Phil shows you how to replace the bathroom floor. Mobile home bathroom that was damaged by an overflow air conditioner leak.

00:00 Bathroom damaged from a/c leak
00:15 Check your over flow line at least once a year and blow out
00:25 Drain line needs to be on the other side of the house on the downhill side
00:55 The leak could come from anything
01:05 What all we’re going to do today
01:40 We’ll pull back the carpet checking for damage
03:03 Toilet has been taken up. Why you might not want to caulk there.
03:41 Tank bolts, what if they won’t come lose?
04:20 Before you move the toilet and tank back
04:37 You will want to block the septic drain
05:25 Inside the AC
06:02 Brought the trim back in to show you why you want to caulk the bathroom trim
07:05 Want to break a hole in the floor along the edge
07:50 Floor is out, and we’re adding wood along the edges to support the floor
10:17 Where we put the wood supports
10:50 Measured for the flange
11:35 Shut offs and water lines
11:49 Why we cut the plywood the way we did
12:29 Showing how we pieced the plywood for the floor together
13:10 Supporting the cabinet
13:49 Cutting the two by
15:08 Back inside with the 2 by
16:56 Starting the tile
17:22 Tile glue and what you need to think about
17:49 An alternative to tile glue
18:15 Floors in, we sealed the trim bottom and top
18:43 Fast grab saves you some time, but costs 3 times as much

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And this is another example of a bathroom that got an issue with the air conditioner. The overflown on the a-coil, spilled over and then ran inside the bathroom of the bathroom and into the hallway some too. That’s very typical. What you want to do is every year, sometimes twice a year you want to blow out that line. That goes for a drain, and it’s uh…

I’ll talk about that another time. But that drain line needs to go to the other side of the house. Not on the uphill downhill side. Otherwise, that water can literally make this house settle because that moisture underneath the piers make the house settle down. So this is an important thing maintain your drain line and clean your a-coils.

A lot of people don’t know how to do that, but there’s plenty of maybe at some point I’ll show you how to do that. You can buy a little aerosol can that sprays and cleans it all up. I’ll show you all that another time. Anyway, that’s what happened here. But it could be a leak from a cabinet, sink cabinet, or from a tub overflowing.

It could be this issue. So what we’re going to do today is tear out this floor. We’re actually going to leave this time, leave the cabinet in. We’re going to pull the toilet, remove the trim, and put in a new door. This actually is not a door that came from the factory it’s been put in. We’re going to put in the doorjamb jamb.

Of course we’ll have to widen this out. I’ll show you all that. We’re going to put new tile down. I’ll show you two different methods of glue and then we’ll put the toilet back down. We’ll put new tile in new trim, and we’ll pull the carpet back because we have a split there. In the carpet, it’s from the factory.

You don’t normally have the split right here. So this is probably a big carpet that’s been replaced. We’ll pull this back and we’ll look and see if we have any damage here that we need to work on because particleboard deteriorates slowly, quite often, and you might have a bad area and it take another year or two for a totally falls through.

It’s all held together with glue. Everybody says, well, you should always use plywood instead of particleboard. Sort of. The issue is water soluble glue is put in plywood that puts in layers. So if water gets on that plywood, it’ll be laminate and it will not fall through like particale board does, but it will rollercoaster and the layers will come apart So water is a bad thing for wood.

So if you know and have time, we won’t have time on this one. When you put plywood in a kitchen or in a bathroom, if you have the time, paint it. And that way you can resist a lot of the damage. It might happen from an overflow of a sink or an overflow the toilet or an overflow tub or people stepping out of the tub. So just for your information, this is what we’re going to do and I’ll guide you through it.

Hey, the toilets being taken up. It had some caulking around it, which is not a bad idea. It’s just not a good idea if you’re thinking that it’s going to keep it from leaking out, what it’s doing is forcing it to hit the floor there and it’ll come out anyway.

Anyway, what we did was shut the water off because if you don’t have a shut off there, you have to shut the whole house down. Do it because you have to remove the toilet to do a good job. Now, whenever you do that, then you flush your toilet and then you disconnect your line and there’s going to be water coming down.

So that put a towel down and then you’re going to try to loosen up your tank bolts in this case, like many, many cases. Tim, he’s operating the camera and had to cut off those bolts where the sawzall or you can take a hacksaw on turned. There’s a way to change blade to a sideways. You can cut that off real slowly and cut those bolts off.

Then you lift that toilet up. And in my case, we took it and put stuff to cover up, the toilet, uh the tub because we don’t want to skin up or dirty up the tub and put it inside there and then put the tank in here. Now, before we put this tank back I don’t want water to come out of that trap, which is right here, what we’ll have to do is rock that tank backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards and more water come out.

Hopefully we’ll have very much come out before then. Whatever we pull the toilet and put it in there. You better put something inside here because if you don’t, you end up savoring the smells that come out of a septic tank because the trap is in the toilet, not in the floor. Like in a sink the trap is underneath the sink.

So you will not have a trap to stop the, to the water is what in the bottom of that trap, stops the smell from coming up. The trap, that’s what that’s for, is to stop the smell. So put something in that hole and we’re going to cut out all this area and we’ve also got the issue with the jam right here.

It’s been all rotted out from the air conditioning unit. Not having the drain. And this is the drain.

“Good save.”

This is the drain line. This is a cool mess that gets clogged up here. Or if it gets clogged in that drain line all the way out. It’ll overflow, drop down into your air conditioning vents and all over onto the floor. That’s what happens. This is not unusual at all. It happens a lot. And before you know it, your floor is rotted out.

You don’t even have a chance to fix it. So once or twice a year, you need to clean that up. We’ll clean this up. Alright?

Hey guys just let, we brought the trim back in so you can see this is very typical. It’s nothing unusual. Water might have overflow from here or the shower came down from here. Some people stepping out from here.

The toilet could have overflowed to sink, kind of overflows. But when the water comes up here against this drywall, there’s no caulking right here. It’ll go underneath the trim and then hit that drywall and it will come up. And that’s what you see right here. It’s coming up the drywall and it stains the trim at the same time.

“It soaks into the drywall, right?”

Soaks into the drywall, comes up here quite often. You can literally see stains. And these have been painted over but it’s been a while since it’s had an issue. But you can have the evidence right there in front of you. And so what we’re going to do, whenever we get through with all this, replacing the floor and everything we’re going to caulk the front side and the top side of that trim. So and not that it’s going to make it a pond in here, but it will stop it from running hitting the wall and whicking up.

And I recommend you do the same. So what we usually do is when we’re getting ready to may replace the floor is this is going to be tough, but we… This has actually got particle board that has been replaced before. There’s been tile put over the top of linoleum. But we do that so that we can start to sawzall up against the wall and cut along that edge.

And sometimes it’s real easy, like, like there easier to get. So that’s what you do. You start and then you put your sawzall and cut it in an angle and cut it out.

OK, This pretty thing is not as pretty as it was. We took out the floor, which is a bit of a chore, we had chisel around the edges, get everything cleaned up We were fortunate enough to have wood on the outside. Quite often you have to build it out.

One point I guess I’ll have a job where I can show you guys how to do that, but a lot of times you can just fashion it to there, underneath here. This cabnet is a point. We’re literally going to go from here to there underneath the cabin. We’re going to crawl underneath there and fasten that to the floor joist over there.

But I’ve already got that cut. Put one piece in, and now I’m using pressure to the wood, not because I have to, but because it’s left over from a deck that we did. So it’s just a plus for the customer, and I fit them in there tight between. So you cut them tight and then I So I’ll put 3 inch screws in, now in reality, I could actually like, say for here, go like this and I want to make sure the set good and so on that twisted down. That always runs an issue so you can actually go through the side also.

But in this case I’m going to go as long as and I put one on at least two per end. Now, I’m not using any coated screws they’re just more expensive, doesn’t do any better job. Do not use torks if it’s more expensive. So that way there’s something for the plywood to be at that won’t move. You put weight there, it won’t move. We’re going to put one here and here on both sides of the toilet so that I can cut and go underneath the toilet flange, which I’ll show you that.

So here we go. I’ll try to cut you here in there as I go along.

All right. So in this situation, we cut wood along side the tub, with screws fastening it, one on each side of the toliet flange itself and then one underneath the cabinet kind of out. So the edge of the cabnet will be done and then one underneath the counter, whick had to climb underneath and fasten to the floor joist. So we fastened it here and then crawled underneath it and fastened underneath the cabinet.

So the cabnet is supported. In a minute, I’ll show you how we’ll put in one right here. But right now, we’ve measured the center of the flange and then measured the center to here and then mind you, that sits on top of the plywood. So it’s actually it’s actually about an inch back in here or more that the plywood needs to be cut in a circle around it.

I guess I’ll do a tutorial on how to cut toilet flange. And when you don’t have the tools, all the different ways to do it. And then we also have the water supply line. So, this is CPVP which will freeze I generally encourage everybody to do pex. Um, the shut-off is leaking but I think we can, but I think it’d be alright.

I usually use quarter turn shut-offs and this one’s shutting off most of the way we marked where the floor joist is here, where it is here and where it is here. We got the plywood cut and the piece go round now means we have one on each side. Not only does this give support to the toilet. But also it allows us to cut the plywood where we can go like so and have pieces instead of one solid piece meant to cut the pipe, put it back together, which just causes more grief.

A lot of times there’s multiple connections and it goes on to somewhere else. So you don’t want to do that. So that’s why I’ve always added this, because it makes a better job. And then I guess we choices as to where to cut the wood and I have screws underneath, screw it all together and be all nice together. So that’s what we’ll be doing next.

All right. What we’ve done is went ahead an cut this all way down this floor joist. It was right here. Then we slip this piece in and then we put this piece in the top slipped it underneath. We’ve already got this piece cut. Quite a jigsaw puzzle. But after you had the centers and you got that cut, then you decide, hey, I can, I can make that little distance right there.

Or I could have went from here to over to there and then try to wiggle around this one to allow myself that much work and quiet often scratch the cabnet. But before I put this piece in, I want to support right here in front. So to show you what I do.

I know that in between these two 20 and quarter it allows room but I want to have at least two inches, two and a half inches on each side. So I’ll have notch the 2 by turn it on edge and notch the two by on that side with 20 and a quarter in between two and a half inches on each side. Then I’ll put screws through here and I’ll show you that when we come back.

We’re trying to get that two and a half inches in this case we cut down an inch and a half, my drywall issue. You can do this with squares, but I can do it real quick. I’m going to cut that section out. And then I’m going to have 20 and a quarter over two and a half inches from there.

Inch and a half inch and five eighths down so I cut this section out here and cut that off. Alright ready to go. Well, we’re going to go inside and.

Here we cut that like we showed you put a little screw in here so I can hold it and I’m going to drop it down through, and guess what I need that screw to hold it. Well, I could do in my hand, I guess if you needed like a pry bar or anything else, you can hold it pretty steady right there. And I need three inch screws. Thanks.


Well that didn’t last Now. We have something solid for the floor to sit on and we’re supporting both sides for the cabinet. Cabinet won’t move. Now, guess what? Now the next piece of the jigsaw puzzle.

“Which can be quite puzzling.”

This looks like we have to do some cutting. Just. As you want it to be. Correct. Ten and half insert. We’ll have to cut this and we’ll be right back.

What we did is when we walked in. I would want, since I’m doing 12×12 tiles. I would want the full pieces on this side so that would be what you would see and also like starting from this side. So the cut edges would be over there and the cut edges over there.

So, I marked 24 inches over. So I’ve got a line. That would be where I would want it to have enough to get up against the wall over here. So again I’m going to put glue down. Normally you would put a commercial VCT tile or glue or other kinds of glue. All there’s a lot of different types, but I like the commercial, but normally you would need anywhere from an hour and a half to a day depending on the humidity in the air for it to dry, and the temperature.

So, I’m going to show you guys an alternative. And it’s not something you see all the time, but this is a fiberglass resin panel adhesive and it grabs fast. But guess what? You can use it on tile too. So, I’m going to show you how to do that. It’s just basically the same as regular glue. But we’re going to do it and away we go.

OK, guys we’ve got the floor in the first grab. We put the trim in, resealed it. Now, this is important: we sealed at the bottom and the top of the trim. So if anybody steps out of here or splashes off, the shower comes down and we’ll go behind that and it won’t go underneath there and we rebuilt all that floor, including where he’s standing over there and sealed everything all the way around and using the fast grab saves you some time.

We cost three times as much as the glue. And that’s a fiberglass resin panel. That dog is not happy. Anyway. So there you go remember your Americans not American’ts.

Floor Repair Water Damage From Below

Floor Repair Water Damage From Below

Updated 1-12-23

How to repair a floor from water damage below

Hi guys, we were repairing a floor and got wet from underneath it. The line busted, sprayed up on the floor and they wanted us to pull the carpet back and see if we could save it and put new floor in. So this is what it looks like to begin with. We got some big old soft spots right here and a couple over in here, but.

Usually the factory will pull this carpet over the top of the floor and then staple it from the sides, set the walls on top of it, so we’ll probably have to cut the carpet and then peel it back. Lots of fun.

Well, I was wrong. That’s another reason to not think of me as perfect. But they did have a tack strip and we pulled it up. So that we can cut and put in the old particleboard and put in plywood.

The damage is also in this area here, and they’re probably not going to get away with having to put in. Tile or linoleum.

So what they paid us to do is to replace this area because it got wet from underneath. That’s what we’re going to.

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How To Repair Subfloor – Home, Mobile Home, and General

How To Repair Subfloor - Home, Mobile Home, and General

DIY how to repair a mobile home subfloor. Shows total floor repair. The techniques will work for all types of floors. When you have water damage in mobile homes, usually they have particle board and needs to be removed completely. The board will continue to rot under the plywood if you just try to cover … Read more

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