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Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement

Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement

Updated 1-22-23

Double-wide mobile home metal roof installation. Metal over shingles.

⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️
00:00 Gathering up materials
00:39 You don’t need slip sheets under the metal
01:00 We’re not doing this because we make a bunch of money from you watching
01:45 The people talking aren’t trying to help you out
02:15 Using screws, will tack off as much as possible
02:28 Wanted an overhang
02:45 12 sheets in 30 mins, to a vent
03:07 Right now, need to get under it
03:40 If we needed to replace the vent you would need to order it
04:30 We’ll tape around the vent
04:45 Make sure all the nails and staples are down
05:00 Multiple layers of shingles
05:40 We’ll replace the plywood, new felt paper, and shingle
06:00 Took out the old plywood
06:13 Vent/duct is back on
06:26 Cut V into the vent
07:48 Want to screw all the way around and then seal the vent up
09:00 Well flatten down, put tape around it
09:15 Putting tape for the tar, perfect corners
09:45 How you can save money on the roof
10:27 Applying the tar
11:26 Getting it off your hands or other things
11:47 Pulling the tape up
12:40 Need to measure for the ridge cap and foam
13:15 Make a mark from the peak and pop a line
13:25 Put your foam on the chalk line
14:58 The ridge cap
15:10 How you want to lap over the ridge cap
15:39 You want to screw down both ends first
16:15 That way you keep everything square
16:26 End of the roof
16:51 We did 3 roofs in Florida 23 years ago, they are fine
17:23 What we charge a sq ft for metal roof vs. what the average price is
17:40 You can do this yourself
18:00 All the maintenance

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Effectively. We started about 7:45. That doesn’t count the all time we took the set up and going to get metal, that’s hours of work. Well, we’ve got rain coming in on this particular metal roof and I expect it to be around 2:00. So we see what we can get done before two o’clock.

Which means we might go right through lunch and then eat lunch late. I had a lot of discussion, not a lot of one or two guys talking about not having the slip sheets and how condensation and everything could possibly get through and cause the roof to leak.

I’m going to say that’s a bunch of bull, but I’ll do a video separate on that. But I want you guys to know, then are watching these videos to understand.

I’m not doing this because I get paid a lot of money or something by you guys watching, and I certainly wouldn’t get paid if I told you the wrong thing. So the people that are being negative, if you notice, and there’s not very many, they don’t say anything positive. So in reality, they’re the same kind of person that might be criticizing Mother Teresa for not having a better career.

So I don’t I will help you with your confidence about how you feel about what I do so that you can know how to do it, because I don’t do metal roofs in anywhere but this area. About a two-hour radius. I don’t do it in Seattle and don’t do it. So all you people that are in whatever town take confidence.

The ne’er do wells always be there. And these things can be done. And I’ll do a separate video about how condensation happens and what you might do to not let condensation be there. In this case, shingle roof don’t need slip sheets, which is just another way to spend money and make it seem like they’re doing something special and they need talent.

Oh, we’re using screws and I’m going to tack them off, get as much metal on as possible, and then we’ll go back and screw it off and try to keep straight lines with chaulk lines and such as. Here we go.

I wanted an overhang because they don’t want water to run into the windows anymore, or do damage to the masonite siding this house is never going to move. If it had to be moved, then you could have to cut metal siding up because you couldn’t have the overhang. But we’re trying to hurry it up for the rain gets here.

Now, we’ve got 12 sheets up in 30 minutes. That are tacked off. Some are a little more than tacked off. We’re getting to a vent here. There’s probably for a bathroom since it’s not on the outside wall, and I’m probably going to reuse this. Well, I know I am. And I’ll show you how to.

Right now. We’ve got to get underneath it. Pull it up, and then we put metal and cut around it. And it smells like a sewer vent or something.

If we were to try to find one of these, we’d have to order it most likely. And I can easily shape this for looks without actually building too much of a curve in the staples and nails into the vent. We’re going to use the caulking, or not caulking, but tape. Great big vent.

“For a teeny tiny hole.”

But that’ll work. We’ve got to make sure that all the nails and down the staples are down all the junk out of there. In reality, we only need a hole this big. So we’ll get to you and we’ll show you all that as we come along.

Two layers of shingles looks more like 4 layers on the end, and they never did get it sealed properly, right here. While it moved. So, actually nothing, it was kind of… You would not want to step on this. So we’re going to replace all that. It’s at the point where we’re starting to get into the what you might call a rafter in the mobile home business. But it’s going to be right. We’re going to replace that plywood. We’re going to put in a wood around the cut edges and then we’re going to felt paper on it.

We’re going to put new shingles on it. Even though the singles are just there for vapor barrier, and we’ll make sure that it shed water like a regular shingle roof. And I’ll show you a couple of pictures. Here we go.

All right, we’ve took out the old plywood, put in two bys along the edges. Everything’s done with screws, no nails, staples. We’ve got the felt paper cut. We’re fixing to put that down.

Put the duct back on there, it was the exhaust fan for the bathroom and you duct tape it and use a nail gun like they did and cleaned up all the single stuff on the outside of it. And then I’m going to set it on the hole. I’m going to cut a V to the center of the ribs in both directions, on the outside of the rib to the in the middle. It’s a little tough over here because it’s got two layers. Which is odd.

But we are fitting the budget of the owner and it will not leak. Then when I do is I put a screw on this side of the ribs, suck it up, do the same down here. And then, I’m going to do the other side of the rib. That’s going to have to have more than one screw there. We’ll have to seal all that up, put screws all the way around it. Right beside the rib first. If I actually see a hole I’ve filled with a screw. I hate these screws.

Anyway, we’ll flatten that all down, put screws in it. Then we’re going to put tape around it for a nice clean border and we’ll put tar and we’ll pull the tape up and I’ll show you that.

Another an inch or two for the tar to bind to the metal. And the, and I want a nice clean look when I get through. So I make. All this as the edge, it makes for a square edge like an artist or something can do perfect straight corners. Usually I use a wider tape and this is what we had today.

And I’ll put the tar around it. And then I pulled the tape up. Which one when we had to replace the plywood and we put the felt paper on and shingles, then they’ve got this rich, the roof jack back on. I mean, you can put new ones on. I do quite often. This is on a budget. So he wanted to, if it were any good, let’s go ahead and save them like 12 to $15 a piece for the roof jack that is flexible and they do a good job.

But this one, really this is roof has had more than one shingle roof put on it, and the second one was leaking worse than the first one. Probably.

So anyway, I kind of do like I’m doing icing on the cake, which I don’t know if everybody’s done icing on the cake, but I had ex-wife who was a cake decorator, so I got to have some experience with that. But smooth it out so that water will tend to run around it and you can see how that forgives us. When it comes to the outside edge, I’ll make sure I’m pressing into the metal and tying it all together. And I go over all the screws.

If you have a tendency to get it on your hands a lot. Then you can wear latex gloves, anything oil base. You can use oil to take it off of you or anything else. So keep that in mind. You can use WD 40. And pull it off of your hands. Pretty good. Then all I’m doing is.

Got it on me.

“Put it on James.”

Put it on my guy down there.

“Oh, I see that ending badly. You’re going to end up getting smacked in the head James.”

Then I’m gonna put. What he do? Is this silicone?

“That looks like…”

No

“Taintable.”

Hey, this won’t work.

We’ve been dodging in and out between rain pretty much kept everything dry. And had no leaves. It had leaves before and it has no leaves now. We’re going to put the ridge cap back on. In order to do that the ridge cap in this case, is 11 inches wide. That’s basically the ridge, you can get them as wide as you want, actually. This is 11 inches wide that would be five and a half from center to center. But I generally go five because I don’t want my foam right on the very outside edges.

So, what I’ll do is mark on the peak. Don’t make pay attention to the metal and I’ll measure 5” on each side make a mark on the rib and then top line on both sides and then we’ll show you putting the foam on.

See we’re putting the foam on the chalk line that we made. It’s ah, what you would call closure. This is over closuer, and they make a foam closer that goes under also. But we don’t have any use for that.

It has a female side and a male side. So this is actually has sticky on the bottom. So it’ll set in place. The wind won’t blow it away, you can get it without the sticky. Say if you’re doing the ridge cap and you want to tuck it under as you go. We’re not doing that. We use the sticky and this is the stay uphill side of the line. I’m going to try to do both sides at the same time. So, all thinking for there. This keeps the driving rain from pushing up that ridge cap, once it’s fastened and snow from building up and then getting underneath. And then getting underneath here.

The roof is fairly deep anyway, but we’re not counting on anything as far as the metal we’re just using the shingles, we’re putting the metal and using the shingles as a vapor barrier, anyway. That we’ll show you when we get ready to put the ridge cap.

The ridge cap, so you want to lay on top of and be even a little beyond your foam for that stick out, and you’re going to screw into the ridges.

Now the way you lap over depends on what the highest visibility is. So everybody’s looking this way. You want to cover over this direction. If you go under, they have a tendency to see that edge same with vinyl siding and so on, so on. So we’re going to.

We think that most of the parking and driving is going to be over there, although this is so high nobody will ever see. We’re going to lap it over like this. It’s a line of vision to see that gap.

What I do, I lap over a couple inches anyway, sometimes more than that. Then I screw into the first rib and I go down to the other end. Screw it down.

That way, as I work it this way, it doesn’t walk one way or the other, all right? Then screw every other rib, you don’t have to do everyone if you want to. You can, but you don’t have to.

Here’s the metal roof. I’ve had some people, one guy say something, about a he had a roof that in Florida that it didn’t have the slip sheets. Which is just paper, sort of and said it got scratched and it rusted and he’s got videos to show it. But I’m going to suggest to you guys that I also did three rooves in Florida. Which two of them I’ve called up and said hey how are they doing.

Just since that guy said that. They’re all doing fine.

That’s like 23 years ago. I’ve not had any issues in 26 years. This is a metal roof to fit somebody’s budget and I know what’s irritating a lot of these guys that are watching these videos and this I’m going to put it out there: This roof I’m doing for $3 a square foot. The average price for a metal roof is 10 to $15 a square foot. I’m making money. Good money.

Imagine how much more money they’re making. So, look at this, you can do it yourself. so I’ve actually done one by myself several times just means a lot more ladder up and down. You don’t want to choose to be on a windy day and this is good.

The color got a 40 year warranty on the metal, on the color. A limited warrantee. And then you might know how long a metal roof last. The only maintenance you have are the vents. You’ll have to maintain the tar. I mean come up every two or three years and make sure that there’s no more new cracks, that you don’t need to fill in and in this case, you got dead trees that might fall and hit it all around. But this is the way to go. This will outlast shingles by a long, long ways. This had two layers of shingles and the last layer was 20 plus. It might have been more I don’t know, but it was leaking. So this is the way to go.

I promise you. This is you can do it yourself because you’re an American, not American’t.

How To Do Metal Roof Valley Foam Insulation – Metal Roof Valley Foam

How To Do Metal Roof Valley Foam Insulation - Metal Roof Valley Foam

Updated 1-11-23

Phil shows you how to install valley foam on a metal roof. Sorry about the sound quality, there is a transcript of what he’s saying.

⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️
00:00 You’ll want to put valley foam in, especially in snowy climates
00:23 Don’t unroll it until you’re ready to do the total area
00:39 Take the screws out and slide it under the edge of the metal in your valleys
01:00 Pulling the cover for the sticky side
01:30 Try to keep the tape low or you will cut it

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Transcript:
Probably would or should. There’s a lot of road noise, sorry. Should put valley foam in. Particularly when it snows, the water will go up that valley and go down underneath it, and will find a hole. This is valley foam. It comes in rolls as soon as you unroll this you need to prepare. It will continue to expand, and it expands to two and a half inches thick. So, it’s meant to grow to the odd the angles that you put these valleys on and fill these ribs up with foam. So, the trick is going to be take these screws out, about 16 inches back that you’ve already put in. The screws should be an inch or two away so that they don’t end up being in on the wrong side of the valley foam.

So, what you have got to do is take those screws out go to lift it up, and stick it underneath that edge. But uh, it’s a pain sometimes because you’ve got deep hooks on that edge, and slide it underneath there with the sticky side, which would be this side here and it turns into clear right there down underneath. And then you, we’ll show you how you can just pull it all off. As long as you keep it there. Under the roll there’s a little strip to help you could grab it, put that underneath there, and you want to keep it low or you’re going to end up cutting your, your peal off and you’ll have to reach under there and get it again. It’s kind of a pain, but just keep it low and ends up sticking like that. See that, I cut it so I have to reach under there and grab it anyway. Just keep peeling it up and then that will stay in place and you put your screws back in.

There you go.

Metal Roof Penetration Installation – Metal Roof Penetrations 2 9-9-19

Updated 1-11-22

How to cut for penetrations in a metal roof. We are putting the metal directly over the shingles. Your shingles act as both barrier and insulation, and save a massive amount on your labor costs. Doesn’t matter if you are DIYing the project or paying someone. We all only have so much time.

⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️
00:00 You will usually need to cut the metal for roof penetrations
00:17 How you need to measure it
00:49 Marking the metal
01:45 Tip to cut out the penetration
03:30 We have all the tools, but try to give you ways to do the job with simple tools too
03:57 How to seal the flange over the metal ridges
05:00 Fasten from the middle and move out to keep it spread out
07:15 Why I don’t use sealant

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Okay, guys, there’s another delema that you run into is having to cut the penetrations for the roof. In this case it doesn’t fallout anywhere on. It’s going to go right over the top.

What I’m going to do again is to lap over, going to measure to show 4″ to 14. Then measured from the top need 13, which I can actually write there, make a mark and 23. That’s the area that I’m going to cut it and then I’ll show you how I cut. One of the ways that I can cut.

Okay, the 13 and the 4″. Let’s see a 4″ and a 14, actually. A four right there, right beside the rib. 14 right there, and then there’s a mark right here here, so we can… See the mark is right here. All right, so we have a square here, that we’re going to cut out.

Now, you can get snips and then cut it. But a lot of times it ends up being a real nuisance. Usually I use a sharper screwdriver than this, let’s see what happens. Using the hammer. To drive that edge through. We’re hitting that screwdriver. A lot of times it won’t go all the way through one side, from one direction. So you go…. There’s your hole.

So I have four different kinds of cutters at the Shears. I have the dual wheel, that spins different directions. I have nibblers, I have all kinds of cutters. You can use a saw and turn the saw blade backwards.

All of them have a risk of stuff getting in your eye. So this is not an old man. You, me? I’m old now, so you can do this without. Any special tools. We’re putting the vent over a hole that was cut. If you noticed the vent is much, the flange is much bigger than the ribs. So, what I do is I get the center of where that rib is going to be might no fall exactly in the center of the vent. And then I cut so that there’s a v, and then I can fasten these down. And these on the outside edge when it’s close like that I’ll let it get mashed down and fold it over.

But I’m going to do it on the top. Also. All right, and then when you fasten, you want to make sure you start in the middle, work your way out. That way. Everything’s so I’m spreading myself out. I’m going to go to the top.

You see how that vent, that v that I cut in that vent flange that’s around that metal to wrap down around. That way I can seal it all up, and it will have a good tight fit before you can get to sealing it. I don’t
recommend using a screw gun for a hammer.

I’m going to tell you something about sealant before I even show you how I do it. A lot of people, you’ve got some really high engineered and expensive silicones that come in tubes and they work, okay. Anything that
comes in a tube, is going to shrink and that’s why I quit using it. Because I got a ton of leaks and keep going back, because it shrinks after it dries. A little bit here and there. So I don’t do that anymore. No matter that companies are encouraging you to buy their thing.

So I’ll show you later how I seal it all up.

Ceramic Tile Backsplash Huntsville, AR

Huntsville Tile Backsplash 12

This job is improving on an older mobile home. We put a ceramic tile backsplash in both the kitchen and bathroom of the trailer. In the bathroom, we rearranged the lighting and spruced it up. The trailer is one that we have been sprucing up for the couple for over a year. We do the … Read more

Why Your Mobile Home Tub Has Cracks

Why Your Mobile Home Tub Has Cracks

Ever wondered why your plastic mobile home tub has cracks you can’t patch? In this video Phil explains how, and why this happens. Oh, Phil has one mess up on the video, the mobile home type tubs are 54″ and house are 60″. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Talking to you today about mobile home bathtubs00:10 Mobile home tubs … Read more

Checking for Water Leaks In Your Pluming

Updated 1-8-23 Every once in a while, it’s your responsibility are to check underneath the sinks and toilet to see if you have water leaks. What you will need to do is: Don’t be surprised if you feel condensation coming off of your sink and below your toilet. That is caused by the difference between … Read more

Finishing the Walls in Your Mobile Home

Updated 1-8-23 You can finish the drywall of your mobile home and make it look just like a regular home. You can take those batten strips over each 4′ strip of the drywall off and put tape and drywall mud on those cracks that those covered up, and you can finish the complete house like … Read more

Electricians and the Mobile Home

Updated 1-8-23 Do not be discouraged by electricians or other repair trades, especially electricians, saying that they can’t work on mobile homes because the electricity is not the same. It is the same. It’s just that the electrical boxes are quite often very different in mobile homes, but the electricity is the same.

Mobile Home Doors vs Home Type Doors-Can Your Mobile Be Better?

Updated 1-8-23 All those doors in a mobile home are often very, very fragile, and the jams on the outside edge are not like a house in they are made of paneling. People get discouraged and say that oh this is just junk and you can’t do anything about it. That’s not true. You can … Read more

Drywall Repair for Mobile Homes

Updated 1-8-23 The Drywall if you have in a mobile home is normally 3/8ths inch thickness. So if you have to patch a hole in the drywall you will want to by 3/8ths thickness material. It’s much easier to finish the drywall if all surfaces are the same thickness, than if they are not.

Toilet-Wax Ring Leaks To Calk or Not To Calk

Updated 1-10-23 A few people will try to stop the wax ring of the toilet from leaking by caulking around that ring to stop the water from leaking out around the toilet. And it will stop it from leaking out around the toilet. What it does is hold the water there under the toilet and … Read more

Why Use Toilet Wedges

Updated: 1-8-23 If you toilet moves around sooner or later it is going to leak. If it does you will end up replacing the floor because the floor will rot under and around the toilet from the leaking water. You can put plastic wedges called toilet wedges to keep it from moving around underneath the … Read more

How to Aviod Pesky Toilet and Bathroom Repair

Updated 1-8-23 Ways to avoid expensive bathroom repairs. Probably be a good idea to take your toilet and put something between the tank and the wall, like a piece of wood. Because not only do people bump against the tank but they also have a tendency to lean against the tank when they are changing … Read more

Heating and Cooling Unit Maintenance

Updated 1-8-23 Most people forget that you have to do maintenance on you home air and heating unit, that’s any air or heating units. More times than not the air condition being central air or heating unit is neglected by the customer. The customer needs to understand that every 30 days they need to clean … Read more

Home maintenance for Mobile Homes

Updated 1-8-23 When you buy a new or used mobile home, that does not mean you don’t have any home maintenance from that point on. It absolutely means you have the same responsibilities as in a regular house. Even if you own a regular house, maintain it. As a repairman for over 30 years I … Read more

Painting/Tape on Cabinet Finish

Updated 1-8-23 One thing to be careful of when you start painting around your cabinets like your kitchen cabinets do not put tape or be very careful when you put tape on the finish because it is paper thin and it will pull off when you take the tape off. And then you will have … Read more

Buying a Mobile Home: Checking the Ridge Beams

Updated 1-8-23 The ridge beams hold the mobile home together and support it when it’s moving down the road. They run along the bottom of the mobile home on both sides to support the floors and walls. Before you get ready to buy a mobile home, check out the ridge beams. The beam is 2×6 … Read more

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