Setting Up Double Wide Mobile Home

Story time, and time to get to know Phil just a little better. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Intro00:12 Comedy: that is his life00:22 One point he was setting up a lot of mobile homes close to 20001:05 Going to Little Rock to meet the mobile home mover01:30 Get out to the site02:00 First half went on pretty easy02:30 … Read more

What those Tub Cracks Can Hide in Mobile Homes

In this video you get to see just how bad things can be when your mobile home tub has cracks and leaks. Okay so we’ve took the surround out in the tub and you can see where the seam was it wasn’t holding was leaking so it’s rotted out this two by here, the support … Read more

Start of Leveling Floors In A House

Updated 06-27-2023 House Re-Level 2020 ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Releveling house00:20 Cap blocks & other supplies01:15 Under the house01:33 Why you don’t want to let animals get underneath your house01:45 Watch the lines under there02:25 First thing to do is check the frame with water level02:40 20 ton level left down there from someone else ???? Subscribe, ????, … Read more

Removing a Skylight on A Doublewide Mobile Home

Updated 7-6-23 Taking a skylight out of a double-wide mobile home. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Woops should have cut that out… Bad editor00:10 Used to be a skylight00:30 Good thing I’ve gotten better at editing00:50 What it looks like done ???? Subscribe, ????, it helps a lot!!➤❓/ ????:➤ Follow ➤➤I get a little for the channel-no … Read more

Leveling Mobile Home – Relevel on a Doublewide Mobile Home

Leveling Mobile Home - Relevel on a Doublewide Mobile Home

Updated 1-22-23

How to do a relevel on a double-wide mobile home. Phil shows what we had to do on this home. We always use 20-ton jacks. Never tiny jacks, you want the power behind you. When you are re-leveling a house you want to make sure the jacks and piers all stay level.

Here’s a link to the video How to make A Water Level to Relevel a House . They used to check their lasers with this type of water level.

Here’s the playlist for all our videos on Re-levels

00:00 Under a 20″ frame
00:24 Have set up the water level
00:52 Use colored water inside a clear line
01:09 This house is rougher than most, the underpinning has been pulled down
01:35 House has been there for at least 20 years. Phil recommended putting insulation between the joists.
02:00 He tries to use ceiling type insulation for mobile home floor joists
03:00 Moisture on the ground and no vapor barrier causes that damage
04:00 First you want to take the water level and see where it’s out of level
05:15 You set up for the first area you want to jack up
05:30 You need to know what you’re doing before you start leveling a double-wide or any home
05:55 How we are using the jacks to get the first side level
06:40 You want a 20-ton welded bottom jack to level a house
07:30 The fun things you find under the house
07:48 This is us introducing you to what all goes on when you re level a house, look for a playlist for more complete instruction
08:10 A quick rundown of how many re levels he did in just 14 months, and he’s got over 30-years experience
09:08 Onto the other-side of the double wide
09:22 Things he wants to fix or should be
10:35 What you want to watch for when jacking on the frame
11:40 Be smart about the frame, check for wrinkles and if they have welded it
12:41 Shows you how the water level works against the frame

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Hey, guys. I don’t think you’re going to be able to see everything. I see. But we are underneath the house, which is, I don’t know, I’d say 20 inches. The frame is 20 inches off the ground. We’ve set up our water level, which is right here. Well, I’ll have to show you how I make a water level that’s more rugged than the ones that I started out with, which were for ceiling grids.

Very accurate. We used to check our lasers with them, set benchmarks, and then measure up from the benchmarks to do because the ceiling is, of course, this one is made out of schedule 40 pvc fittings and now I’ll do a video on how you do that and then there’s a colored water inside of a clear line. It’s 50, 60 foot long.

That way I can basically go a hundred foot radius from the reservoir, which I generally put near the center. This particular house is rougher than some because all of the underpinning is pulled down, as you can tell. It’s kind of a paper covered and the moisture eventually pulls down, the animals pulled it down. Also, if you see right here, where would have been straps on the metal, they’re not there anymore.

They this probably second or third move for this house. And it’s been sitting here for quite a while. I worked on it something like 15 or 20 years ago and told them they needed to put insulation in the house in the in the floor and then cover it up. And generally what I would do is put insulation in between the floor joists.

There’s a place where I get it. Instead of getting the stuff at Lowe’s, which is more expensive, I get it. A drywall supply place where they put it in ceiling tile. So a two foot would be exactly two foot. So it would sit on top of the ceiling and you could insulate to ceiling that way. Whereas the stuff you buy at Lowe’s is 14 and a half, 15 and a half something like that cut down to fit in between the, the floor joists.

Well, a lot of times the floor joists are not dead on or it’s just difficult to get stay so you end up buying these wires to hold in between the rafters to hold that up and if you go with the ceiling tile type insulation you shove it in there and it just wedges in and it’s, it’s bigger than the opening and it’s the same and it’s actually cheaper because you’re buying it as from a place it generally sells wholesale but moisture on the ground because a vapor barrier is not there ends up causing things like you see right there where the moisture is getting to the floorboards and more that you can also see where they have replaced the floor.

So we are moving. What we have done is set this water level to that frame and then went around and checked. Actually, I am not going to take credit for my skinny, number one is not that I can’t do it and haven’t done it many, many times. I’ve been doing this for 30 plus years. If you count multiple states, but in 26 years in this area crawl all through these places.

So he’s crawled through and we give him credit for that. The thing we do first is we go and take the other end of that water level, which again, I’ll show you how that operates and how to adjust it and very simple. And he checked it. We, you know, with this area and we determine that one whole side on the side we came in on is an inch and basically an inch and a half to an inch too low.

And then the frame, this frame here which we are level two is pretty good all the way through. And then the one that’s on the second half, which is this is double wide, it’s pretty good except for just a little ways down that way. It’s about a half inch off and will probably take that up and then the the final frame way over here is toward the ravine side, which is a pretty big ol’ ravine behind us is about an inch and a half an inch slowly.

Well, fairly quickly, actually, it goes up and then it starts leveling out about halfway through. So we’re going to take that side over there up first. And that’s what he’s setting up for.

This is not me instructing you on how to do this. Be a much lengthier video because there’s a lot of things that you need to know before you and you don’t want to make a mistake because what happens is and I’ve not done it, so I’m not speaking from experience. I’m expecting speaking from other people’s experience and me come along fix.

But if you don’t stay level it will push. I don’t care if you have three jacks, it will push everything, all your jacks out of a level. So every jack has to be level. In this case, we’re using one and he’s we’re going to go up over there first and then we’re going to come over to the middle and we’ll go up that half inch.

And that way we will have more than half of the house level. Then we’ll move to the other side and we’ll go up an inch and a half over there. Now, not so he’s over there going up. Generally, he’s tells everybody, hey, we’re going up way. Everybody knows to keep an eye on their peers and keep leveling and putting wood in so you don’t lose what you might have if, say, the something crunches and settles down fast.

We’re using a 20 ton hydraulic jack, no bottle and tiny bottle jack the one I have is a it’s well over 20 years old it’s welded bottom not threaded in. I know that sounds like a picky thing but if you get one under a lot of stress not up and down but say, if you’re not, you’re having to jack a house sideways and I know that’s not something the general public going to do. It will break the bottom This one is showing its old age because it’s leaking oil and we’ll eventually have to get another one instead of paying as much as a new one.

For a rebuild. So anyway, this is what we have to deal with. We’ve already crawled over a dead carcass or two either brought in or just crawled in here to die. And it can be unnerving the size of the spiders, especially when Tim like he’s doesn’t like spiders.

And he says that’s an understatement. So keep in mind, this is not my telling you to go and tackle something like this. I want to show you guys a little bit as I go along and then maybe there’ll be a compilation if you pay attention to all this stuff. But there’s years and years of experience, and one year alone we did 44 double wides.

We did four triple wides, and then another. No is 150 double wides, 44 single wides. And then three or four triple wides, all in one in like a year and two months. So I had a crash course that sped up my skill level. I can pass on to you all these different tips, but I really would rather you turn it over to somebody that has the experience and the tools.

But anyway, I will show you what I know as I go along. And of course you can’t pick up everything I know in a camera. I can show you as much as I can. So we’re going to turn you loose from this video and we’re going to disappear for a little bit.

Here we are on another end of the same house. It’s it’s been quite a few repairs in here and not really my style for instance, the or the joints are that are not getting wood underneath them. Multiple boards to support over here where the board is not really connected right there.

I would have made sure there was something there to support that. Not so much for the pipe but for the that little bit area right there above is not strong enough to support much weight. And it’s a good idea to have a little that covers this joint so that there’s no movement right here between these two. So if you step on this side, it squishes down that side and and then make an increase in the flooring up above.

So generally, I would always put a 2by over here and tie the two of them together. So they move together but they did use plywood for the most part. And there’s this frame right here which you can see a little bit more whenever you’re jacking on it. You want to sit in the center right underneath this frame here.

So your jacket would be right in the center of the head of that. Jack would be right in the center. So it would jack up there. And you want to make sure that down here where you dig in your level you’re not tilted to push that frame and literally been the lip. If you try to set about here, it’ll bend the lip up and pop the jack out, a lot of bad things happen.

So as you can tell, oh, let’s see, right here, you see that bend? Most likely that’s caused by somebody jacking other than in the center over here on this edge sometimes you have to be conscious of the fact that they may have bent the frame or even welded the frame. So you’ve got to be smart about the frame. Look for wrinkles.

They’ll end up being wrinkles right here. You don’t want to set up in the same place. Encourage it to be in same place. So now we’re this area here we’ve determined it has got to go up an inch and a half, but we’re still check it as we go the water level is kind of a little more of a nuisance to deal with because of the lack of lack of underpinning to hold it.

Usually what we do is tuck it right above the well right above the frame and the friction of the, the underpinning holds it to the frame. Then it drapes down here and you can see the bottom where the water is and where we get to go up or down. And so what he’s doing is is taking a look and kind of holding it which is more of a nuisance.

Uh, and we’ll set up the jack to go up, see if you, I don’t know, see if you can see as we get closer. If you notice the water is showing, that’s where the bottom or the top of that ledge of the frame should be. And we’re going to take it up that much so that’s what we’re going to do when I’m jacked up. And then we’ll add to the block, the pier there. The pier and here. And that’s what we’re doing next.

Prodex Insulation On Mobile Home

Prodex Insulation On Mobile Home

Updated 2-1-23 What is Prodex, why would you want to use it. Why we usually DON’T pull shingles off. And an easy way to handle Prodex rolls, prep for installation. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Alternative to insulating your roof00:19 Not for vapor barrier, you could00:30 R-rating equal to 10″ batt insulation00:55 Lot of discussion online about putting metal … Read more

Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement Part 2

The second part of a metal roof install. Double-wide mobile home metal roof installation. Metal over shingles. Installing your foam, ridge cap, and then what we charge per sq ft vs the average charge per sq ft for a metal roof. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Need to measure for the ridge cap and foam00:39 Make a mark on … Read more

Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement Part 1

The first part of a metal roof install. Double-wide mobile home metal roof installation. Metal over shingles. They have the roof ready for all the metal. You will also learn how to reuse a vent/duct, and tar like a pro. ⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️00:00 Gathering up materials00:39 You don’t need slip sheets under the metal01:00 We’re not doing … Read more

Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement

Mobile Home Metal Roof Replacement

Updated 1-22-23

Double-wide mobile home metal roof installation. Metal over shingles.

00:00 Gathering up materials
00:39 You don’t need slip sheets under the metal
01:00 We’re not doing this because we make a bunch of money from you watching
01:45 The people talking aren’t trying to help you out
02:15 Using screws, will tack off as much as possible
02:28 Wanted an overhang
02:45 12 sheets in 30 mins, to a vent
03:07 Right now, need to get under it
03:40 If we needed to replace the vent you would need to order it
04:30 We’ll tape around the vent
04:45 Make sure all the nails and staples are down
05:00 Multiple layers of shingles
05:40 We’ll replace the plywood, new felt paper, and shingle
06:00 Took out the old plywood
06:13 Vent/duct is back on
06:26 Cut V into the vent
07:48 Want to screw all the way around and then seal the vent up
09:00 Well flatten down, put tape around it
09:15 Putting tape for the tar, perfect corners
09:45 How you can save money on the roof
10:27 Applying the tar
11:26 Getting it off your hands or other things
11:47 Pulling the tape up
12:40 Need to measure for the ridge cap and foam
13:15 Make a mark from the peak and pop a line
13:25 Put your foam on the chalk line
14:58 The ridge cap
15:10 How you want to lap over the ridge cap
15:39 You want to screw down both ends first
16:15 That way you keep everything square
16:26 End of the roof
16:51 We did 3 roofs in Florida 23 years ago, they are fine
17:23 What we charge a sq ft for metal roof vs. what the average price is
17:40 You can do this yourself
18:00 All the maintenance

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Effectively. We started about 7:45. That doesn’t count the all time we took the set up and going to get metal, that’s hours of work. Well, we’ve got rain coming in on this particular metal roof and I expect it to be around 2:00. So we see what we can get done before two o’clock.

Which means we might go right through lunch and then eat lunch late. I had a lot of discussion, not a lot of one or two guys talking about not having the slip sheets and how condensation and everything could possibly get through and cause the roof to leak.

I’m going to say that’s a bunch of bull, but I’ll do a video separate on that. But I want you guys to know, then are watching these videos to understand.

I’m not doing this because I get paid a lot of money or something by you guys watching, and I certainly wouldn’t get paid if I told you the wrong thing. So the people that are being negative, if you notice, and there’s not very many, they don’t say anything positive. So in reality, they’re the same kind of person that might be criticizing Mother Teresa for not having a better career.

So I don’t I will help you with your confidence about how you feel about what I do so that you can know how to do it, because I don’t do metal roofs in anywhere but this area. About a two-hour radius. I don’t do it in Seattle and don’t do it. So all you people that are in whatever town take confidence.

The ne’er do wells always be there. And these things can be done. And I’ll do a separate video about how condensation happens and what you might do to not let condensation be there. In this case, shingle roof don’t need slip sheets, which is just another way to spend money and make it seem like they’re doing something special and they need talent.

Oh, we’re using screws and I’m going to tack them off, get as much metal on as possible, and then we’ll go back and screw it off and try to keep straight lines with chaulk lines and such as. Here we go.

I wanted an overhang because they don’t want water to run into the windows anymore, or do damage to the masonite siding this house is never going to move. If it had to be moved, then you could have to cut metal siding up because you couldn’t have the overhang. But we’re trying to hurry it up for the rain gets here.

Now, we’ve got 12 sheets up in 30 minutes. That are tacked off. Some are a little more than tacked off. We’re getting to a vent here. There’s probably for a bathroom since it’s not on the outside wall, and I’m probably going to reuse this. Well, I know I am. And I’ll show you how to.

Right now. We’ve got to get underneath it. Pull it up, and then we put metal and cut around it. And it smells like a sewer vent or something.

If we were to try to find one of these, we’d have to order it most likely. And I can easily shape this for looks without actually building too much of a curve in the staples and nails into the vent. We’re going to use the caulking, or not caulking, but tape. Great big vent.

“For a teeny tiny hole.”

But that’ll work. We’ve got to make sure that all the nails and down the staples are down all the junk out of there. In reality, we only need a hole this big. So we’ll get to you and we’ll show you all that as we come along.

Two layers of shingles looks more like 4 layers on the end, and they never did get it sealed properly, right here. While it moved. So, actually nothing, it was kind of… You would not want to step on this. So we’re going to replace all that. It’s at the point where we’re starting to get into the what you might call a rafter in the mobile home business. But it’s going to be right. We’re going to replace that plywood. We’re going to put in a wood around the cut edges and then we’re going to felt paper on it.

We’re going to put new shingles on it. Even though the singles are just there for vapor barrier, and we’ll make sure that it shed water like a regular shingle roof. And I’ll show you a couple of pictures. Here we go.

All right, we’ve took out the old plywood, put in two bys along the edges. Everything’s done with screws, no nails, staples. We’ve got the felt paper cut. We’re fixing to put that down.

Put the duct back on there, it was the exhaust fan for the bathroom and you duct tape it and use a nail gun like they did and cleaned up all the single stuff on the outside of it. And then I’m going to set it on the hole. I’m going to cut a V to the center of the ribs in both directions, on the outside of the rib to the in the middle. It’s a little tough over here because it’s got two layers. Which is odd.

But we are fitting the budget of the owner and it will not leak. Then when I do is I put a screw on this side of the ribs, suck it up, do the same down here. And then, I’m going to do the other side of the rib. That’s going to have to have more than one screw there. We’ll have to seal all that up, put screws all the way around it. Right beside the rib first. If I actually see a hole I’ve filled with a screw. I hate these screws.

Anyway, we’ll flatten that all down, put screws in it. Then we’re going to put tape around it for a nice clean border and we’ll put tar and we’ll pull the tape up and I’ll show you that.

Another an inch or two for the tar to bind to the metal. And the, and I want a nice clean look when I get through. So I make. All this as the edge, it makes for a square edge like an artist or something can do perfect straight corners. Usually I use a wider tape and this is what we had today.

And I’ll put the tar around it. And then I pulled the tape up. Which one when we had to replace the plywood and we put the felt paper on and shingles, then they’ve got this rich, the roof jack back on. I mean, you can put new ones on. I do quite often. This is on a budget. So he wanted to, if it were any good, let’s go ahead and save them like 12 to $15 a piece for the roof jack that is flexible and they do a good job.

But this one, really this is roof has had more than one shingle roof put on it, and the second one was leaking worse than the first one. Probably.

So anyway, I kind of do like I’m doing icing on the cake, which I don’t know if everybody’s done icing on the cake, but I had ex-wife who was a cake decorator, so I got to have some experience with that. But smooth it out so that water will tend to run around it and you can see how that forgives us. When it comes to the outside edge, I’ll make sure I’m pressing into the metal and tying it all together. And I go over all the screws.

If you have a tendency to get it on your hands a lot. Then you can wear latex gloves, anything oil base. You can use oil to take it off of you or anything else. So keep that in mind. You can use WD 40. And pull it off of your hands. Pretty good. Then all I’m doing is.

Got it on me.

“Put it on James.”

Put it on my guy down there.

“Oh, I see that ending badly. You’re going to end up getting smacked in the head James.”

Then I’m gonna put. What he do? Is this silicone?

“That looks like…”



Hey, this won’t work.

We’ve been dodging in and out between rain pretty much kept everything dry. And had no leaves. It had leaves before and it has no leaves now. We’re going to put the ridge cap back on. In order to do that the ridge cap in this case, is 11 inches wide. That’s basically the ridge, you can get them as wide as you want, actually. This is 11 inches wide that would be five and a half from center to center. But I generally go five because I don’t want my foam right on the very outside edges.

So, what I’ll do is mark on the peak. Don’t make pay attention to the metal and I’ll measure 5” on each side make a mark on the rib and then top line on both sides and then we’ll show you putting the foam on.

See we’re putting the foam on the chalk line that we made. It’s ah, what you would call closure. This is over closuer, and they make a foam closer that goes under also. But we don’t have any use for that.

It has a female side and a male side. So this is actually has sticky on the bottom. So it’ll set in place. The wind won’t blow it away, you can get it without the sticky. Say if you’re doing the ridge cap and you want to tuck it under as you go. We’re not doing that. We use the sticky and this is the stay uphill side of the line. I’m going to try to do both sides at the same time. So, all thinking for there. This keeps the driving rain from pushing up that ridge cap, once it’s fastened and snow from building up and then getting underneath. And then getting underneath here.

The roof is fairly deep anyway, but we’re not counting on anything as far as the metal we’re just using the shingles, we’re putting the metal and using the shingles as a vapor barrier, anyway. That we’ll show you when we get ready to put the ridge cap.

The ridge cap, so you want to lay on top of and be even a little beyond your foam for that stick out, and you’re going to screw into the ridges.

Now the way you lap over depends on what the highest visibility is. So everybody’s looking this way. You want to cover over this direction. If you go under, they have a tendency to see that edge same with vinyl siding and so on, so on. So we’re going to.

We think that most of the parking and driving is going to be over there, although this is so high nobody will ever see. We’re going to lap it over like this. It’s a line of vision to see that gap.

What I do, I lap over a couple inches anyway, sometimes more than that. Then I screw into the first rib and I go down to the other end. Screw it down.

That way, as I work it this way, it doesn’t walk one way or the other, all right? Then screw every other rib, you don’t have to do everyone if you want to. You can, but you don’t have to.

Here’s the metal roof. I’ve had some people, one guy say something, about a he had a roof that in Florida that it didn’t have the slip sheets. Which is just paper, sort of and said it got scratched and it rusted and he’s got videos to show it. But I’m going to suggest to you guys that I also did three rooves in Florida. Which two of them I’ve called up and said hey how are they doing.

Just since that guy said that. They’re all doing fine.

That’s like 23 years ago. I’ve not had any issues in 26 years. This is a metal roof to fit somebody’s budget and I know what’s irritating a lot of these guys that are watching these videos and this I’m going to put it out there: This roof I’m doing for $3 a square foot. The average price for a metal roof is 10 to $15 a square foot. I’m making money. Good money.

Imagine how much more money they’re making. So, look at this, you can do it yourself. so I’ve actually done one by myself several times just means a lot more ladder up and down. You don’t want to choose to be on a windy day and this is good.

The color got a 40 year warranty on the metal, on the color. A limited warrantee. And then you might know how long a metal roof last. The only maintenance you have are the vents. You’ll have to maintain the tar. I mean come up every two or three years and make sure that there’s no more new cracks, that you don’t need to fill in and in this case, you got dead trees that might fall and hit it all around. But this is the way to go. This will outlast shingles by a long, long ways. This had two layers of shingles and the last layer was 20 plus. It might have been more I don’t know, but it was leaking. So this is the way to go.

I promise you. This is you can do it yourself because you’re an American, not American’t.

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