The guys are installing a metal roof over shingles on a single-wide mobile home.
⏱️⏱️Chapters⏱️⏱️
00:00 Roof needed to be replaced
00:15 The pebbles have disappeared from the shingles
00:45 We’ll screw the metal right down to the shingles, never had a problem with this in 30+ years
01:18 You can’t fasten to metal, have to strip it and add a vapor barrier
02:45 If you do your own roof, if you have shingles you’re good to go
03:00 You can add insulation
03:32 Dealing with traffic noise and wind
03:45 Didn’t put screws on the outside edge because that’s where the rake will go
03:55 No screws until the rake and corner are on
04:15 Invariably, the houses are not straight
04:25 Measuring for the roof jack
5:10 How to mark and cut the metal for roof jack
06:10 Hammer and screwdriver to cut the area out
07:06 Metals on, all the vents cut out around
07:30 Cut v into the vents when they go over a rib to get your seal
07:45 Doing the foam closure and ridge cap
08:00 Make your mark for foam where it will be under your ridge cap
08:14 Putting the foam down
08:47 How you want to lap the ridge cap
09:10 Good habit to have when installing ridge cap
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This is a roof that definitely needed improvement. If you notice, the shingles are already blown off. You see these gaps right here. These are areas where the pebbles have already disappeared and these probably curl up. That’s why you see the dark colored.
Right here when it gets cold. So he made a good decision. About getting the, getting to this metal roof. He just didn’t know that I did it and when he met me he was like hey why don’t you do this. So if you take a pan down that way, you see what we’re dealing with. And we ordered the metal so that a little bit longer and pewter gray.
You’re going to screw it right down to it. I’ve been doing that in this area 26 years and I did it in Austin and Jasper, Texas, you go back 30 something years. I’ve never heard of issues where the slip sheets are needed so that it causes grief. I’ve… When I say I’ve never heard of it and we’ve never had an issue. The problems need to be when you start stripping.
Like if I was doing that metal roof over there, you couldn’t fasten to that metal. And I’ll show you another metal roof, that uh, is an example that. You couldn’t fasten to that metal it will pull off. Pull out. The screws won’t hold, and so on and so on. But we can do, is you strip it with one bys or drywall conduit(??) through the metal into the rafters. So now, you don’t have any movement. And you have some solid fit to.
Now, if you fasten that metal directly to that, you don’t put a vapor barrier or any insulation in there. The cold air between those strips and the metal will be cooler than the air outside, or warmer than the air outside in the wintertime. That will cause condensation on the bottom of the metal. That water will run down, hit, find the first area where you fasten to those rafters. It will then run into the roof. That’s because of the air space. Having a difference in temperature.
Directly between the metal on the outside and the inside. This will not have that gap. And the vapor barrier itself is the plastic, I mean the shingles. So we’re not I’ve never had to go back and fix a roof in 30 something, 40 years. I’m 58 and I’ve been doing it since I was 17, 18. I understand these guys that are trying to pitch, this is all the things we got to do. We got to.
But I’m telling you, as if you want to do your own roof, if you got shingles. You’re good to go. Just roll with it. You can put slip sheets in if you want to. It’s another $250 and a lot more labor. And a windy day like we got today. You’ll be hard pressed to keep it fastened. You can add insulation, there’s rolls of insulation now.
That stick to each other to foil face. Both sides. And there, even though they’re only like 3/8 of an inch thick, they can insulate up to an R16 I think. So it’s really good. They’re using all metal buildings a lot, and I’ve actually incorporated in several houses I’ve put metal roofs on. We did that one over there.
OK, we’re going to do this one, and we’ll try to educate you as we go along.
We have a lot of issues, wind and a lot of traffic noise from the road. But anyway if you notice, we start on the outside edge, left it even got about an inch overhang we did not put any screws on the outside because that’s where the. The rake is going to go.
And invariably you put screws right there in the center, it into being exactly where that rake or corner would fall. So, we don’t put screws there until that rake and corner goes on everything else on two-foot centers. A lot closer to the edge. So in your experience you’ll see that this goes failrly quickly, and we’ll see when we get the penetrations.
And invariably these houses are not straight. The top goes in and out and so will the roof. So we’ll end up having to adjust here and there.
We’ve take off the roof jack that goes around this one vent. And what we’re going to do is measure: 25 1/4, 27 1/2 and write down that measurement right here. And then we’ll transfer that to the sheet that we’re fixing to put up here, but we need to have it the top: Which will be 20 to 22 and three quarters, give myself room. All right. And then we’re going to show you how we cut it.
So we’re measuring over what we measured at 25 from the side of there, 25 and a quarter to 27 and a quarter. That will be right on the side of that.
Lots of fun. Then top down 20 to 22 and 3/4. So we’ve got to cut this section right here out. Now to do that I usually use a blade screwdriver and the hammer. As a habit, I would normally want to use a thinner screwdriver although this is kind of sharp. It’s just kind of thick to go through. Just litterally hitting the screwdriver and driving it though. There’s a lot of others ways to do it, but this is one of the most effective per the effort that you’re going to get. Obviously, you don’t want to do this on top of another sheet of metal. Usually be someon down on the ground.
We’re doing it so you can have a chance to see it in action. There’s the hole let’s put it up and see what happens.
Pan down and you’ll see the metal we’ve put on. On two foot centers, cut in the vents like we showed you. Where ever it cuts goes over the top of a rib we cut a v into it. You see over here, we cut it. A V into that, and then we’ll be putting tape around it and then tarring and pulling the tape up.
Right now we’ll get ready to do the foam closure and the ridge cap. The ridge cap is 11 inches wide. Normally you can get it made any size you want, just like any metal. You can get made. So in order to keep the foam underneath.
That is to keep driving rain and wind blowing underneath that ridge cap. We’re going to be at five inches. So we made a market five, on both sides all the way down.
We’re going to pop a line and then we’re going to put the foam down. Then we’ll come back and put the ridge cap and screw it to every other rib. Just like that. We’ll show you.
Ok, these uh, you can ask for them glued or unglued. The unglued ones would be if we wanted to put your ridge cap in the slot under. These are glued so you can stick them in place. There’s chalk lines there, and they would go with it. If you can’t see your chalk line, which we’re starting to see, you might want to measure. Keep it 5-inches. Which it’s a male female situation, and they are made to just go right over the top of the ribs.
In this case, the roads most visibility that you’re not going to get much visibility from the back. So we’re going to run this way and that means the lap goes over this way. So there won’t be any gaps showing from the road. Be one single piece. And I have it… You need to get in the habit of putting a screw on one end finding your center, put a screw in the other end, and then go back.
And fill it in. Because if you try to just go walk it along, odds are you going to twist it one way or the other. So, just uh, do one on each end. Then we lap it over and then screw through it.