How To Install Plywood Mobile Home Floor Repair

Here’s another section on the mobile home bathroom repair, putting in a cast iron tub. We are laying plywood for the subfloor. This is the first piece. It has several cuts. Around the water pipes and the heating and air vent.

Get ready for some tips and tricks to speed you along on your own DIY bathroom remodel.

00:00 Follow along with a handyman
00:25 Recap of what’s been done
01:10 If you’re low you can always add a wedge to make sure the floor is super tight
01:30 Why you don’t want to run your wood with the floor joists
01:50 Why put 2 bys on all the edges
02:00 Measure floor and anything you need to cut around
03:14 Mark your plywood
03:55 Want to mark floor vent and your floor joists-helps layout where to put screws
05:15 Marked the angle for cut-so can go around pipes
05:35 Why he wants to do an angle cut
05:55 Never be afraid to remeasure
06:30 Marking out the vent
06:55 Maybe he should have written it down?
07:05 Put wood under to protect saw horses
07:24 Different ways to make cuts to the center of plywood if you don’t have a drill
07:55 If you have a drill
09:05 Cutting for your plumbing
11:07 The tools aren’t terribly sharp, his aren’t. You can do this
11:20 Why he cut that piece out that way
11:40 How he will reinforce that cut piece
12:05 Setting the plywood
13:00 How to set your plywood without causing dents
14:10 Cleaning up the doorway to set plywood
14:20 Adjusting the floor vent
15:00 What you need to do to secure the vent
15:25 Want to use inch and half screws for plywood
15:30 How close to set screws and why.
15:55 Every 6″ on the edges, and various tools you can use
16:50 You’ll fill in the cracks on edge and around pipes with spray foam or caulking
17:23 Piece in around your pipes
19:30 Screwing off the edges of the plywood
20:35 Got the first section in
20:50 What to do where the wood meets to make floor stronger
22:20 Be an American not an American’t

Hi, I’m Phil bridges, owner of Straight Arrow Repair. Ever want to know how a repairman fixes things? Well come with me, and I’ll show you how I solve problems. Let’s make things better together. All right, so we’re back another day over the weekend.

Well, we showed you what we did to get the board on the side there was in between the two floor joist layout and we did all this. There was no installation or there was insulation left on top of the frame.

We laid a board flat and then put that wall on edge. You may have to allow for the fact that you’ll have to add a quarter inch in between somewhere in there three-eighths, which we will do we’ll drive a wedge up in there.

But as it was, we’re up against floor over there, so we had to make that decision. Over here, I think we can go up a little bit, although you look very tight against the floor right there, but I would like to get a tight, tight and so I’ll make a wedge and slam it up in and get it tight. The next thing we don’t go with the floor running with the floor just because invariably ends up getting dips in between because plywood as strength is running across, across the floor to get that strength. And then if you notice we’ve got two by fours on the edge over there and it’s screwed, we got one to adjust and I have measured from this side here across. And I got room 54 and three-eighths or maybe 54 and a half little on the loose side. But I don’t want to have to fight it.

The next thing I want to figure out since I started from this side, we’re going to have to clean up a little bit right here, where it’s sticking out, whereas the rest of it is not. But since I’m going to measure from this, I was pretty consistent. We start on the side of this pipe, at four and a quarter to six and a half and then I’ll go out there and transfer that and then I will.

Let’s go out there and do that for quarter six and a half, and then so side to side. 26 and a quarter. 28. So, what we’re gonna do is transfer these right there. Mark, you might could round these corners a little bit, but it’s not that big of a deal. If you want to know what I just do with my fingers, I’ve got a video on how to do that.

But you can do the same thing with a straight edge, like a four-foot level or two-foot level. Mark it. That’s what I want to cut. Then we have to cut where the water lines will be. I would like them to stay inside this line. Usually, they’re about an inch to give it room, so seven-eighths, seven-eighths.

And one inch. Down a little bit, give me more room for now, we have a floor vent over here. This side is not really the pretty side, the pretty site had a great big chunk missing out of it, so I’ve turned it over to this side.

And. What I want to do next is get that floor vent and then Mark, where the floor joist are so I can cut. So, if I want to, I can angle cut, but it also helps kind of lay out where we put the screws.

But what I’ll probably do is, is go at an angle, say like that and. Probably, like that. That way I can slide it in and then lay it down. And I’ll do it underneath this, because all that plumbing up above will keep you from dropping down. So, I’ll go underneath on this side and drop down on this side.

Next thing we do is we’ll get the floor uh, floor vent here. 35 to 39 and an eighth. That’s, usually they’re four by ten, so. Looks like we need to cut a little bit right there. Well, twelve by seven, twenty-three one. 35, 39 and a quarter.

I forgot what my numbers were this way. 34, 37, 39, 34 plus four, I’d better check that. So now we’ve marked where the vent is, gave it a little bit of room most of the time. I can do all this standing up and on sideways laying, but I’ve got the sawhorses, and we put wood under here.

So, the saw blade wouldn’t hit either that or this. Got to give us some room. And a lot of times if you don’t have a drill, you can just take your saw. But if you have a drill, a paddle bit to some kind, you can.

Drill your hole. Which now we got to put a battery in, it don’t work good without the battery. And now we’ve got to cut this end over here. Generally, what I would do. So, I know that I’m going to cut this so I can get it behind. You can’t get it in one piece without cutting the pipe off and all that.

That allows me to have the ability to take this. All right. That is not terribly sharp, and it’s bent. This is not terribly sharp, and the saw is not terribly sharp. That shows you, you can do it no matter what.

But this will allow me to slide underneath the pipe. And over the top of the vent and then I mark where the floor joists are, if it’s off a little bit, I’ll know to go this way or that way on that line after a little bit and we’ll screw it down.

Everything’s going to be screwed. Generally, what I would do is put a short piece of wood here if I can, even if I have to turn a piece on edge like this right here. That way, no matter that, nobody’s ever going to be back there, it’s supported, and it makes it all nice and straight.

So, we’re going to take all these pieces and we’ll show you when we get there. Slide it against the wall. And we got to get the ductwork squared away. So, if you get into a spot where you need to adjust it, instead of hammering on the plywood itself to get in a spot, take this and hammer on.

This wood, that way the dents are on this. And also, make sure your fingers are nowhere near. And you don’t hit your fingers. That’s a good idea in general purpose don’t hit your fingers. All right. I got to get this up in here, really, really flimsy and expensive.

And there’s a bunch of staples, we’ve got to pull out, but you don’t need to see all that. We got something underneath us right there holding this up. So you get that, maybe I can get that with the hammer under there. I see it is. It’s this, this needs to be cut back, a little bit. Right there?

Yeah, I can get it. So just go and put that down. Shut that off for a minute and we’ll do it. This is aluminum. It does not hold up very well. But we are making progress. So now we’re not sitting on top of that. Make sure it’s all curled under I’ll do a video on how to fix these things.

And we’ll put some screws in the side, or some nails and we’ll hold that in place. So, they use staples. You could use staples or air staples or regular staples if you can get them to hold in. But you don’t want to get in the way of your four by ten vent fitting in there after you put your flooring or temporary basis, you don’t want to fall in part of the floor register or vent cover over. I’m use an inch and a half coarse inch and five-eighths, something like that. That way it goes through this three quarter and into the wood three quarter.

I do it every foot or so in the field. Sometimes more, this is a high traffic area. You can do more just doesn’t do as much good, but I do about every six inches on the edges. And this is an impact driver.

You could do it with electric drill. You can do it with nails, it just nails will back out. We have a board here on the edge. It’s like that wood was pretty swelled up. Think it might have been one inch.

I’m not worried about that right here. If you notice it’s right on here, we were tight up against the bottom of that. So, I know that that probably got swelled up. We’ll fill that it with spray foam or caulking that way no air gets in there. Oh, there you go. So, what I was telling you about, if you have a board like this, you put it under there. This is a little bit long. So, what I can do, put a screw right here.

Loosen up it’s sticking and. Awful big hammer for that job. But then we’ll put spray foam and silicone and seal all that up, so no animals or bugs will get in. Although, in theory, only. If they make up their mind, they’re gonna do it, they’re going to do it.

A friend of mine working with me. Used to tell me about how every year down there along the Mississippi River. These gigantic concrete silos and every year at the bottom of the silo, when they clean it all out, they have to seal up all the concrete because the mice and the rats will chew through concrete.

I guess they take turns until they get to the grain. So, every year they had to fill it back up with concrete because the mice will eat it out. So that’s. So, if you’re thinking you can stop them if they want in, that’s very optimistic thinking.

Not necessarily realism. All right. We got the first section in. We’ll show you what we do when we get around the toilet. It’s next, but. I’ll have to put another one, what we do is put wood everywhere that two pieces of wood meet.

So, if you didn’t, what happens is a little bit of weight gets here, or over here and it makes a movement right here. So, if you had linoleum, or any kind of tile, that movement will end up making a line.

So, what we do to keep those two pieces always together is we’ll put a piece of wood in between there. So that’s what we’re doing next. We’re cutting. We don’t have to be fastened to the two by sixes.

It’s a good idea. Don’t have to. It’s just to keep the two together. So those 21 of the eight, seven and eight. And we’ll do that, and then I’ll show you how to cut around the toilet flange.

This is Phil Bridges, if you like what you saw and think it might be helpful to somebody else, push that like button and let other people know what you and I know, and we’ll work together toward making a brighter future. By the way, we’re not Amera-Can’ts We Americans. See you next time.

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